Do you know the lush leaves of Hoya Pachyclada are the first to lose their fitness due to overwatering? So, to keep the plant in top health, never waver in offering the typical tropical care.
With all the conditions met, Hoyas are still prone to outbreaks and the outcomes surfacing from irregular care routines. Hence, learn from the article below about their basic care requirements.
Table of Contents Show
- Overview of Hoya Pachyclada
- Where to Buy Hoya Pachyclada?
- Hoya Pachyclada: Ultimate Grow & Care Guide
- Hoya Pachyclada: All About Growth Rate
- Toxicity of Hoya Pachyclada
- Propagation of Hoya Pachyclada
- FAQs About Hoya Pachyclada
- From Editorial Team
Overview of Hoya Pachyclada
Hoya Pachyclada is a vining, epiphytic plant, meaning they stick to other tall trees for support without hampering their growth.
This feature of Hoya makes them supreme trailing plants for hanging baskets and window sills.
Moreover, their name “Hoya” didn’t pop out of the blue. Scottish botanist Robert Brown named Hoya after a fellow botanist and his close friend, Thomas Hoya.
Along with these, the plant also has some other beloved features. Look below to find the general overview of this plant.
|Scientific Name||Hoya pachyclada|
|Common Name||Wax Plants, Porcelain Flowers|
|Status and Ecology||Life Cycle: Evergreen Perennials
Habit: Vining Epiphytic Subshrub
Habitat: Dry Tropical Biome
Native Range: Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam
USDA Zones: 10 to 11b
|Growth Rate||Slow and Compact|
|Growth Size||About 2 Feet Tall|
|Growing Seasons||Early Spring to Late Summer|
|Leaf||Shape: Ovoid with Pointy Tips
Size: About 6 Inches Long
Color: Dark to Light Green
Texture: Thick, Succulent, and Waxy
|Flowering Season||Between Spring and Fall|
|Flower||Inflorescence: Umbel (flowers grow in dome-shaped clusters)
Color: Creamy White
Fragrance: Cinnamon to Floral
|Grown for||Attractive nocturnal fragrant flowers
Where to Buy Hoya Pachyclada?
Hoya Pachyclada is a rare tropical exotic plant, a dream for every gardener.
However, they are available in online commercial stores, and you can quickly access any potted mini version of the plant.
See below to find out what places sell these plants and how much time they take to deliver to your doorstep.
|Sites/ Shops||Expected Delivery Date|
|In Succulent Love||Within 1-3 weeks after placing an order|
|My Home Nature||Within 3 weeks after placing an order|
|Gabriella Plants||Within 1 week after placing an order|
|Canopy Plant Co.||Within 5 weeks after placing an order|
Hoya Pachyclada: Ultimate Grow & Care Guide
Hoya Pachyclada belongs to the dry tropical regions of Southeastern Asia and shows vigorous growth in their natural habitat.
However, if you are growing the plant outside its natural home, you may not see the blooms in time.
But you can grow them anywhere if you provide them with the conditions of their tropical home.
1. Light and Temperature
Hoya Pachyclada is hardwired to climb on the surfaces of other tall trees as a vine plant to get as close as possible to the warm light source.
But at home care, you must watch for light and temperature changes, as Hoyas demand natural sunlight and naturally regulated ambient temperatures.
However, Hoya cannot tolerate temperatures running below 50°F, and they can run into cold shock sustaining frost injuries.
Since light and temperature go hand in hand, increasing light intensity can increase the temperature and vice versa.
So, high or low-temperature stress can hamper the leaves, flowers, and roots, ultimately caused by lighting issues.
Effect of Excessive Light and Temperature
- Bleached and off-color leaves (yellowing)
- Marginal and tip burns
- Wrinkling or drooping of foliage
Effect of Low Light and Temperature
- Shriveled and floppy appearance
- Lanky growth of the vines in search of light
- Slow or stunted overall growth
- Leaf and flower drops
- Progressive yellowing of the leaves
- Fewer blooms
Tips for Maintaining Adequate Light and Temperature
- Place the plant near a south-facing window for 2 hours in the morning or evening.
- Hang drapes in front of intense lighting windows to protect the plant from the blazing sun in summer.
- If you live in cold regions, place your plant in the sun for a few hours or relocate it to an east-facing window for the day.
- Keep the plant away from north-facing, drafty windows to protect it from cold air in winter.
- Cool the plant in summer by gently misting it every few days.
- Use LED lights for 10-12 hours, about 12 inches away from the Hoyas, to benefit them during fall or winter if the sunlight is not enough.
2. Watering and Humidity
Hoya Pachyclada has succulent leaves and doesn’t need much water to sustain itself, but they eventually feel thirsty.
Additionally, Hoyas come from humid tropical forests where humidity plays a crucial role in maintaining their growth.
High humidity may not pose a problem for this moisture-loving plant, but low humidity can subside the growth of its parts.
Similarly, overwatering can obstruct the function of their roots, and the effect of this problem gradually crawls on the shoots.
Effect of Overwatering
- Floppy, wet leaves that fall off from the plant
- Weakening of petiole base
- Mushy or pulpy black to brown roots due to rot
- Droopy foliage (inadequate water reaching the upper parts due to root damage)
Effect of Underwatering
- Gradual yellowing and shriveling leaves
- Brown leaf tips and margins
- Dry soil with superficial cracks
Signs of Low Humidity
- Infrequent blooms and fewer flowers
- Slow growth
- Crispy leaves and topical burns on the leaf’s surface
How to Properly Water and Maintain Humidity for Hoya Pachyclada?
- Place the overwatered Hoya plant in full sunlight for a few hours to let the soil dry.
- If you suspect a foul smell from the soil, uproot the plant, check for the root rots and repot in fresh soil.
- Let the soil and the roots dry at least 50% before watering the plant again.
- Empty the saucer beneath the pot to prevent water stagnation.
- Add organic perlite or sand to the soil for additional drainage.
- Layer the bottom of the container with pebbles while repotting the plant.
- Group the plants together or place the plant on a humidity tray to raise the humidity levels.
3. Soil and Fertilizer
Since Hoyas grow by attaching themselves to the barky stems of other trees, they are undemanding about the soil and nutrient needs.
This is because Hoyas fulfill their nutrient demand from the air, but they need a substrate base to fix their roots.
Since Hoyas are light feeders, they don’t need fertilization in fall and winter as they stay dormant.
Too much fertilizer can halt the plant’s growth, sustaining gradual damage to the leaves and roots.
Similarly, if the soil is hard and clayey, it prevents water drainage and blocks the downward growth of the roots into the soil.
Effect of Overfertilization
- Accumulation of fertilizer salts on the topsoil
- Fertilizer burns to the leaves and roots
- Difficulties in uptaking additional nutrients from the soil
Effect of Underfertilization
- Changes in leaf color
- Deformed leaves
- Weak regrowth
How to Provide Proper Soil and Fertilizer for Hoya Pachyclada?
- Flush the soil 4-5 times with distilled water to remove the excess fertilizer salts.
- If the symptoms persist, repot the plant with a fresh potting mix.
- Fertilize the plant before watering so the nutrients can leach to deeper soil layers.
- Always use the fertilizer of half-diluted strength to feed Hoyas.
- Clear the drainage holes of the pot once a week.
- To promote blooming, use NPK fertilizer in a ratio of 5-10-5.
To prepare a homemade potting mix for Hoyas, mix 50% peat moss, 40% organic perlite, and 10% pine bark with some water.
4. Periodic Repotting
As Hoya Pachyclada is a slow-growing epiphyte, you need not worry about repotting it frequently.
You need to remember the size of the pot you are planting since Hoya roots are shallow.
Hoya Pachyclada can stress out with frequent repotting, which is not good for their roots. There is less chance that Hoyas get root-bound, and it takes time.
So, it’s better to wait until the plant shows the following symptoms.
- Roots poking out from the drainage holes
- Cramming of roots on the topsoil
- Stunted growth
- Yellowing of the leaves due to less oxygen reaching the roots (pot-bound condition)
If the plant shows these signs, prepare to repot with these easy steps.
- Water about 1-2 days before repotting to hydrate the plant and soil.
- Take the plant out of the previous pot. Loosen the root balls gently and break the soil clumps.
- Trim off the broken and dead roots in case of any damage.
- Take a terracotta pot and fill 70% of it with the potting soil over a layer of pebbles.
- Gently place the plant in the pot and dab the soil around the base of the plant gently.
- Water the plant properly and place it somewhere with adequate light and good warmth.
5. Recurrent Pruning
Hoya Pachyclada is a climbing plant that takes the support of the stakes to grow.
So, the plant can sometimes grow long vines that dull its appearance and revert its energy, making it quickly outgrow its pot.
Additionally, the plant can have frequent feuds with pests (aphids, mealybugs, scales, and spider mites) and diseases (root rot, rusts, mildew, blight and leaf spots).
So, a proper trim-off is necessary to reduce the disease incidence and spread of pests.
If any of the above symptoms are visible, gear up to prune your Hoya plant.
- Cut the leaves and stems that appear lanky, diseased, off-colored, or stuffed with pests.
- If all or most of the leaves on the vine are heavily damaged, prune off the entire vine.
- Remove the pests using q-tips dipped in neem oil or apply broad-spectrum fungicides every 7-14 days to reduce the occurrence of diseases.
- Burn the plant parts to cease the diseases and pests.
Hoya Pachyclada: All About Growth Rate
Hoya Pachyclada is a vining perennial epiphyte that grows slowly compared to other Hoya varieties.
They can grow to be one foot in height in about two years and a maximum of two feet in their lifetime.
The leaves are oval-shaped (ovoid), light to dark green in color, succulent, thick, marked by prominent veins on both sides, leathery, and about 6 inches in length.
As a vine plant, they seek support for growing if you have potted them in a container. If you have hung them, the plant will be top-heavy.
You can stake the pot with a mini trellis to support the plant stem. The branches will get woodier as they age, so support may not be needed at the later stages.
The plant’s growth occurs throughout spring and summer, while the plant flowers between summer and fall.
Flowers are waxy, star-shaped, creamy white, and appear in clusters called umbels due to their groups resembling an umbrella.
One cluster can have 20-30 flowers, which can vary in color depending on the Hoya variety.
Besides, the flowers have a strong and musky fragrance that can lure pollinators like butterflies and bees.
Soon, the flowers are replaced by spindle-shaped pods that contain seeds.
Toxicity of Hoya Pachyclada
Hoya Pachyclada is a safe plant to keep in your household periphery.
Your pets and kids can enjoy playing around with this plant without toxicity or poisonous risk.
Even ASPCA has not listed this plant on its list of toxic plants on its website.
However, it would be a safe practice not to let them come in contact with its milky/white sap.
Additionally, pets or children can accidentally bite on the plant parts, which may pose a choking hazard, and sometimes even worse.
To protect your pets, use deterrent sprays or cone your pets so they cannot nibble the plant parts.
For children, use tall shelves to keep the plants or hang the plants high above the ground.
Propagation of Hoya Pachyclada
You can propagate Hoya Pachyclada successfully using stem cutting in spring or summer when the plant is actively growing.
Moreover, it helps the plant recover from the transplant shock and provides feasible growing conditions.
Propagate Hoya Pachyclada Via Stem Cuttings
Follow the steps below to propagate this plant by stem cutting.
- Go for a 3-6 inches long healthy stem cutting with at least two nodes and three leaves on it.
- Trim the stem just below the leaf node. Remove the lower leaves and expose the nodes.
- Leave the cutting for a day to form a callous.
- Prepare a glass jar of water and place the cutting inside the jar.
- Immerse the nodes in the water but leave the leaves outside.
- Place the plant in bright, indirect light and change the water every 3-5 days.
- New roots will grow in 2-5 weeks. Let the root be one inch long before moving it to potting soil.
In a 4-inch container, make a well-draining potting soil with perlite and peat and place the cutting to about root depth.
The cutting will take approximately three weeks to root. Cover it with a zip-lock bag to maintain humidity.
Use a single jar and single pot for each cutting to prevent competition and overcrowding.
Besides, Hoya can also be propagated using air layering, but it’s difficult. If you want to propagate the plant using air layering, take help from the following video.
FAQs About Hoya Pachyclada
Why Are Hoya Pachyclada Called Wax Plants?
Hoya Pachyclada has a thin shiny layer on the surface of its leaves that appears to be like a waxy glaze. So they are also called wax plants.
Does Hoya Pachyclada Like to Hang?
Hoya Pachyclada is a vining epiphyte that can show trailing growth and are perfect for hanging baskets.
To support them, use a mini trellis to keep them from wandering away.
Does Hoya Pachyclada Like Deep Pots?
Hoyas don’t have a deep root system, and the pot’s size depends on the size of the Hoya plant.
But it’s ideal to use a pot that is 1-2 inches wider than the previous one to allow free growth of the roots.
From Editorial Team
Don’t Wet the Lower Leaves of Hoyas!
The leaves of Hoyas are thick and succulent that can store water for long periods. Wetting the leaves while watering can cause a similar effect of overwatering the plant, but this time affecting the leaves.
So, wipe the water drops from the leaves after watering the plant.