Are you prepared to be enchanted by the most stunning Pothos variety you’ve ever seen? Manjula Pothos is a striking indoor plant with a lot to offer.
Similarly, the Manjula, like its other Pothos relatives, is recognized for its beautiful leaves.
It is also low-maintenance, making it an excellent houseplant for anyone, even a beginner.
Manjula Pothos is a low-maintenance plant that thrives in bright, medium, and low light conditions with a temperature of 64-84°F (18-29°C) and humidity above 60%. In addition, they’ll thrive in well-draining potting soil with watering every 2-3 weeks.
The white striations on the green leaves of the Manjula Pothos are its most remarkable characteristic.
They can virtually take care of themselves after you’ve found the right setting for them.
Let’s get to know more about the proper care of this beautiful plant!
Table of Contents
- Overview of Manjula Pothos
- A Complete Guide to Manjula Pothos Care
- Method of Propagating Manjula Pothos
- Toxicity of Manjula Pothos
- Common Problems in Manjula Pothos
- FAQs About Manjula Pothos
Overview of Manjula Pothos
Pothos is the Epipremnum aureum genus of the plants in the Araceae family.
Likewise, they’re native to Asia, with concentrations in China, India, and the Pacific Islands, and they thrive in untamed tropical forests.
|Scientific Name||Epipremnum aureum
|Common Name||Manjula pothos, Happy Leaf Pothos, HANSOTI14, Jewel Pothos
|Native||China, India, and the Pacific Islands|
|USDA||11 to 12b|
|Average Height||6 ft long, 3 ft wide|
|Foliage||Large, undulating leaves fused with splashes, swirls and dapples of white|
|Toxicity||Toxic humans and animals|
|Growth Habits||More mounding/bushy growth habit.|
A Complete Guide to Manjula Pothos Care
Manjula Pothos is a stunning addition to any house or terrarium, with various dark and light greens, lovely white streaks, and the most exquisite heart-shaped leaves.
You’ll want to provide it with the greatest possible care, so here are some pointers on how to care for a Manjula Pothos!
|Light||Bright, indirect light|
|Watering||Once in 2-3 weeks|
|Ideal Humidity||Above 60%|
|Soil Type||Well draining potting mix|
|Fertilization||Once every 2-4 weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer|
|Pruning||Prune vines when they get too long or bushy|
|Repotting||Once in 2-3 years|
|Common Pests||Spider mites, Mealybugs|
|Common Diseases||Manganese Toxicity, Botrytis Blight, Rhizoctonia Root Rot|
1. Adequate Sunlight and Proper Location
The Manjula Pothos isn’t particular about lighting, making it an excellent houseplant for novices.
Manjula Pothos can do well in bright, medium, and low light environments. However, it cannot stand direct sunlight.
So long as you keep it out of direct sunlight for a few hours each day, it will be content. Likewise, keeping it out of dark regions and corners is also a brilliant idea.
Given these circumstances, an east-facing window is the best interior location for your plant.
Similarly, the morning sun shines brightly and gently in this position, providing enough light. It also filters the harsh afternoon’s sunlight.
Variegated foliage plants require more light since their two-toned leaves contain less chlorophyll, which is required for growth.
Signs of Overexposure to Light
- Dryness in plant’s leaves
- Black or bleached patches
- Burn in the leaves
Signs of Insufficient Light
- Stretched or leggy growth
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Abnormally small leaves
- Slowed growth
- Loss in variegation
Tips for Providing Adequate Sunlight and Location
- You can use a translucent curtain to screen direct sunlight.
- Place the plant near a window that gets plenty of indirect light.
- If the plant isn’t getting enough light, you can supplement it using grow lights. Provide LED lights for at least 7-8 hours.
- To make unbalanced development due to insufficient light proportion, rotate the plant every few weeks.
2. Warm Temperature
Manjula Pothos requires moderate to warm temperatures to thrive. Because they are not cold-resistant, many people use them as houseplants.
The ideal temperature for Manjula Pothos is 64-84°F (18-29°C). Similarly, they can resist temperatures as low as 43°F (6°C) and as high as 104°F (40°C).
However, your Pothos may suffer from the following symptoms if the temperature is not ideal:
- Uppermost leaves dried off
- Early growth slow
- Burning of leaves
Tips to Maintain Optimum Temperature
- Misting your Pothos might assist in keeping high temperatures in check.
- Maintaining the ideal temperature for your Manjula pothos requires the use of air conditioners and heaters during high temperatures.
- Also, keep your plants away from draft areas with heating and cooling vents.
- Cover the plant with a frost blanket to protect it from the cold during the winter.
Similarly, mulch also prevents temperature loss, which helps to keep the soil warm.
3. High Humidity
Medium to high humidity is ideal for your Manjula pothos. It ranges from 50% to 70%, and depending on where you reside, this may or may not be an issue for your home environment.
Similarly, you won’t have an issue if you reside in a portion of the country where the sun shines all year.
A hygrometer, a simple gadget that detects relative humidity, is the best way to determine the humidity level. You will be able to make the necessary modifications due to it.
Problems due to Low Humidity
- Shriveling or curling of leaves
- Browned or crisped leaves
- Wilting leaves and stems
Tips to Maintain High Humidity
- Grouping your plants: Placing your plants together will increase the humidity. When the liquid in their leaves evaporates, the humidity around the plants rises.
- Pebble Tray: Fill a container halfway with water, just above and below the pebbles’ tops, and place pebbles in it. Thus, the evaporating water will cause the room to become humid.
- Place the plant in the bathroom: The bathroom is also the most humid room in the house. It is a fantastic site for the Manjula Pothos because it doesn’t mind dim light.
- Misting: Because the plant isn’t huge, misting it is simple. However, this will be a continuous process, unlike the other three ways. To keep the plant happy, you’ll need to shower it every few days for a week, early in the morning.
- Humidifiers: Humidifiers are reasonably priced these days, so you can use one to keep the humidity at the desired level.
4. Watering Frequency
Ensure the soil is completely dry between watering sessions when watering your Manjula Pothos.
You need to water your Manjula Pothos every 2-3 weeks.
Similarly, keep the plant in a container with a drainage hole to avoid excess moisture in the soil. Drainage holes help avoid root rot and water accumulating at the bottom of the pot.
If you overwater/ underwater your Majula Pothos, you’ll come across the following symptoms;
- Slow and stifled growth
- Browning and wilting of the leaves
- Root Rot
- Stems will drop to the ground
- Dry and dull leaves
- Yellowing of the leaves
- Curling of leaves
Tips for Properly Watering Manjula Pothos
Manjula Pothos prefers damp soil over soggy or wet dirt. Thus, allowing the plant to stand in water is never a good idea.
- Similarly, allow the soil to dry between waterings during the developing spring and summer seasons.
- It would be best if you reduced watering in the fall and winter.
- With your finger, test the dampness of the soil to know whether watering is required or not.
- Use a moisture meter to determine the amount of moisture in the air.
5. Proper Soil Mix
Manjula Pothos prefers airy loamy, well-draining soil. In such soil, when you water your plant, the soil’s components hold on to the moisture it needs.
These soils are also porous enough to allow excess water to drain instead of collecting at the bottom.
Similarly, it also thrives in slightly acidic soil to neutral, with a 6.0 to 6.5.
|Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix||Contains coconut coir, which holds and releases water and helps soil easily re-wet|
|Soil Sunrise Soil Potting Mixture||This soil mixture features peat moss, perlite, and earth worm castings.|
|Espoma Organic Potting Soil Mix||Absorbs up to 33% more water than basic potting soil|
6. Balanced Fertilizer
The Manjula Pothos isn’t particular about what it consumes for fertilizer.
Your Pothos will thrive in a well-balanced fertilizer. You can use a 10-10-10 or a 20-20-20 fertilizer.
You’ll want to make sure it receives enough nitrogen because it’s a leafy plant. Nitrogen encourages plant growth, resulting in more appealing leaves.
Feed your Manjula Pothos just during the growing season and not in the winter. Feed it once every 2 to 4 weeks during the spring and summer.
Likewise, you may feed a balanced liquid houseplant feed to your Manjula Pothos at half the suggested dilution rate.
However, make sure the potting mix isn’t too dry first. In such a case, water the plant before feeding it to avoid any fertilizer build-up.
Problems due to Excessive Fertilization
- Yellow Leaves
- Dull dark green
- Spots/Discoloration on the leaves
Here are a few fertilizer recommendations for your Majula Pothos;
|Pothos Plant Food | Liquid Fertilizer||Nutrient based constitution of nitrogen fertilizer|
|The Andersons PGF Balanced 10-10-10 Fertilizer||Contains all quick-release nitrogen to provide the plant with immediate nutrition|
|Liquid Common Houseplant Fertilizer | by Aquatic Arts||Liquid fertilizer promotes healthy growth and stops wilt better than granules or pellets.|
Want to know more about Pothos Fertilizer? Here is everything you need to know about Pothos Fertilizer.
7. Growth Habits
When planted outdoors in a tropical setting, Manjula Pothos vines may reach heights of 20 to 40 inches with adequate care.
Similarly, plants grown in containers need to be trimmed, pruned, and regularly pinched to keep their development under control.
Manjula Pothos grows slowly because of its silver, cream, and white variegation. There is less food available for rapid development in a leaf with less chlorophyll.
In conclusion, the Manjula Pothos is a slow-growing, compact, trailing, cascading, with thick leaves.
8. Lucious Foliage
The Manjula, like its other Pothos relatives, is recognized for its beautiful leaves.
The white variegations on the green leaves of the Manjula Pothos are its most remarkable characteristic.
Similarly, its variegation includes what appear to be brushstrokes, cream speckles, and various colors of green.
On the leaf margins, it has a more solid green hue. It resembles Pearls and Jade Pothos in appearance.
However, if you examine their leaves attentively, you will notice a few changes.
The leaves of the Manjula Pothos are more white than green, and they are also broader and rounder.
The luscious green Pothos will add a new vibe to your personal space!
9. Potting and Repotting Manjula Pothos
Repotting your Manjula Pothos is best done in the spring. However, repotting is essential only when it has outgrown its current container.
Make sure the roots don’t reach above the soil line or through the drainage holes in the container.
Similarly, repotting might take anywhere from 1 to 2.5 years, depending on how quickly your plant develops.
You’ll know when it’s time to repot when you see roots poking out of the container’s perforations.
Steps for Repotting Manjula Pothos
- Get a container that’s about 2 inches bigger than the one you’re using right now.
- You’ll also want some new potting soil. Check to see if it’s well-draining. You may also improve drainage by adding perlite or pumice.
- Remove the plant from its present container with care.
- Fill the bottom of the new pot with dirt and place the plant in it to stand out about the same height as it did in its former habitat.
- Backfill the hole with dirt. However, do not compact it too tightly. It’s best to maintain it free so that air and water can readily reach the roots.
- Water your plant thoroughly.
10. Pruning Manjula Pothos
Your Manjula Pothos is a trailing plant that, if not trimmed, will overflow the pot. It is ideal for displaying hanging baskets and containers on high shelves.
Thus, Pruning is necessary for Manjula Pothos maintenance. Pothos vines that have not been cut will trail 8 to 10 feet long.
Manjula is a slow-growing plant that you must prune to remove damaged leaves and keep their bushy appearance.
The argument is that Pruning is necessary to keep the plant’s form and size under control. Similarly, it also encourages new growth, making your Pothos appear fuller.
You should prune your Pothos in the growing seasons, summer and spring.
Where should I Prune my Manjula Pothos? (Above or Below the Node)
When it comes to nodes, there are two types: those above the node and those below the node.
You should prune your plant ABOVE a node. If you hold the vine straight up towards the ceiling, you’ll be able to cut over the node.
If you desire a bushier Manjula Pothos, trim above a node to form new growth on the plant.
Tips to Prune your Manjula Pothos
- Choose where you want to prune each vine.
- Always clip the vine 14 inches above each leaf (approximately 2/3 cm).
- After trimming your Pothos, a new vine will sprout in the node where the leaf meets the vine.
Note: Leave no leafless vines in your wake. These don’t seem to grow back, so I would recommend removing them completely.
- Continue trimming each vine until you’re satisfied with the outcome.
- In addition, light pruning can be accomplished by simply removing the tips of overgrown vines.
You can also check out the article on How to Make Pothos Fuller.
Method of Propagating Manjula Pothos
Stem cuttings are an easy way to reproduce Manjula Pothos. Taking cuttings can not only help you grow new plants, but it will also help you save money.
You can successfully propagate your Manjula Pothos most effectively in July and August.
Follow these methods to grow your Manjula pothos from stem cuttings:
- Choose a healthy stem that has 2 to 3 leaves. Take 4-5 inch long stem cuttings, ensuring that the cut is made precisely below a leaf/node because you want new roots to sprout on the cutting.
- Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and immerse the exposed stem in water using a jar or other container.
- To keep the cutting fresh, plant them in a spot that receives bright, indirect light and refills the water once a week.
- After a few weeks, you should start to see roots emerge. You may transplant the cuttings in a pre-moistened, well-draining potting mix once the roots are at least one inch long.
- To assist the roots in acclimatizing to the soil, keep the cuttings equally wet during the first 1-2 weeks after planting. You can resume a regular watering routine after the first few weeks.
Want to propagate your Pothos from seed? Here is the ultimate guide on how to successfully grow your pothos from seed.
Toxicity of Manjula Pothos
According to ASPCA, Manjula Pothos is toxic to both people and animals as it contains insoluble calcium oxalates.
The plant is toxic and will induce inflammation, vomiting, and other unpleasant side effects if consumed.
Care for your Poisoned Pets
- If you suspect your pet has consumed any part of this plant, get medical help right away.
- Do not feed your cat or use any home remedies to induce vomiting unless told differently by a veterinarian. This category includes any food, milk, or oil.
- Remove them from the plant and place them in a secure location.
If you feel your pet has ingested a potentially harmful substance, contact the ASPCA at (888) 426-4435 or your local veterinarian right away.
Common Problems in Manjula Pothos
1. Infestation of Pests
Infestation of pests is uncommon among Manjula Pothos. And, if you give it the right circumstances, you’re unlikely to have any of these problems.
However, it is important to be aware of the potential problems that may arise. The most common plant pests you’ll find on this plant are Mealybugs and Spider Mites.
Mealybugs are wingless insects with soft bodies that appear as white cottony masses on the leaves, stems, and fruit of plants in warmer climates.
Similarly, like many pests, mealybugs cause damage to plants by emptying their juice, and they favor new growth.
In addition, the leaves become yellow and eventually fall off the plant due to their harm.
b. Spider Mites
Spider mites spin webs around the base of leaves, where the stem meets the base of the leaf. They may wreak havoc on your Manjula Pothos care by draining the juice and sap from the plants.
Similarly, Spider mites, which are nearly invisible, find their way into our gardens unnoticed.
Small patches called stipplings appear initially on leaves. They may change color, curl, and eventually fall off.
- Use the Bug Blaster to spray plants with a powerful, all-encompassing blast of water to reduce insect populations.
- BotaniGard ES is a biopesticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that kills many agricultural pests, including resistant species.
- Handpicking is an excellent way to eliminate the pest’s small population in Pothos.
- Suffocating huge infestations is also possible with insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats.
- Wipe the insects away from the plant using a cotton ball dipped in isopropyl alcohol. After diluting the alcohol with the same amount of water, use it.
- Before introducing new plants to your collection, inspect and quarantine them.
- Plants with high nitrogen levels and slow development attract pests, so don’t overwater or fertilize.
- Once a month, give your plant a good wash with clean water to eliminate any pests.
- Similarly, use pest-free propagation materials and a pest-free soil mix.
- Allow enough space around the plant for air to flow freely.
Are pests bothering your luscious plants? Here is the guide on How to Identify Insect Eggs on Leaves and Treat Pest Infestation.
2. Common Diseases in Manjula pothos
With less-than-ideal care, the disease can become an issue. In this case, the illnesses are bacterial and fungal.
a. Rhizoctonia Root Rot
Rhizoctonia solani is the fungus that causes Rhizoctonia root rot. It commonly enters manufacturing facilities through contaminated potting soil mixtures.
Similarly, Pothos leaves are susceptible to Rhizoctonia root rot during the growing season.
During the rooting stage of Pothos cuttings, Rhizoctonia root rot can cause significant harm.
In addition, Rhizoctonia generates necrotic patches on Pothos leaves that are uneven, black, and irregularly shaped.
b. Botrytis Blight
Grey mold (Botrytis cinerea) is a fungus that spreads swiftly across gardens, particularly in moist, chilly to mild temperatures.
Disease symptoms manifest as grey-colored soft, mushy areas on leaves, stems, blossoms, and produce.
If you keep your Manjula Pothos indoors, they may become infected with this fungus.
Botrytis can cause allergic responses in certain humans, in addition to causing damage to plants.
c. Bacterial Wilt
Bacterial wilt is mainly caused by the pathogen Ralstonia solanacearum causes this disease.
It is most typically seen at the single-node rooting stage of commercial pothos production. Cuttings infected with the virus do not root.
Pothos leaves wilt, and black veins appear in the leaves and stems. When contaminated stems are cut and submerged in water, millions of bacteria are released.
Bacterial oozing is commonly seen on freshly cut stems.
d. Manganese Toxicity
Pothos foliage conditions that resemble disease but aren’t caused by fungal, bacterial, or viral organisms can be caused by excessive amounts of the element manganese.
Similarly, manganese poisoning is more likely in older Pothos plants that are utilized to provide cutting materials.
Yellow flecking or spotting can be seen on older Pothos leaves, along with the darkening of the veins. The leaves may fall off too soon.
e. Fungicide or Chemical Application Damage
Certain chemical sprays are toxic to the leaves of the Pothos plant. Pothos leaf burn and bleaching are known as the side effects of fungicides using mefenoxam.
Similarly, using fungicides and pesticides during the warmest parts of the day might also result in symptoms.
Application of fungicides containing mefenoxam causes white bleaching and tip burn on Pothos leaves.
- Allow enough space between plants for proper air circulation. The fungus thrives in cold, damp environments with overcrowding of plants.
- Similarly, always use equipment and soil that have been thoroughly sterilized.
- Watering from above should be avoided. The disease is aided by watering foliage and flowers overhead, especially on chilly, gloomy days.
- Separate the infected plant from the others.
- Before spraying the entire plant, always test new chemicals on a tiny plant sample.
- Water early in the morning or use a soaker hose to allow plants to dry out over the day.
- As soon as you notice contaminated plant portions, remove them.
- Plants will be protected from disease spores by copper-soap fungicides.
- Avoid fertilizing your Pothos with Manganese fertilizer. Apply lime to elevate the pH of the soil to a range of 6.0 to 6.5 for treating Manganese toxicity.
- If the plant has root rot, repotting is the best treatment.
- Spray the fungicide during the colder hours, such as the early morning the evening.
- Application of triflumizole or thiophanate-methyl may be effective for Rhizoctonia root rot.
Sad Note: There is no effective bactericide to treat bacterial wilt in the plant.
3. Loss of Variegation
Variegated leaf reversion occurs in a variety of plants. The white shading or lighter speckles and borders become green at this point.
Similarly, plants may lose their variegation owing to lighting, seasonality, or other causes.
Likewise, limited chlorophyll in the leaves is one of the most prevalent variegated plant issues. Changes in heat or cold can also cause plants to lose their variety.
Note: Variegation loss cannot be reversed, although it may typically be prevented from taking over an entire plant.
- Variegated plants require more light, which means placing your plant in front of a window to get indirect sunlight.
- To encourage new variegated growth, prune selectively.
FAQs About Manjula Pothos
Why does my Manjula Pothos have Brown Spots on the Leaves?
Brown patches can appear as a result of:
- Salt build up in the soil
- Excessive sunlight
- Pothos with white variegation has more brown dots on their leaves.
Is there a Difference Between Snow Queen and Manjula Pothos?
The Majula Pothos and the Snow Queen are extremely similar. There are no brushstroke-like patterns in Snow Queen’s variegation.
Similarly, it has more white than green, giving it the appearance of a white base with green specks. Its leaves aren’t as broad as those of the Manjula.
Are you a big fan of Pothos like I am? Click to know the differece between Snow Queen and Marble Queen Pothos.
Also, watch the full video for a complete care guide;
Pothos has lately seen many new kinds, many with stunning leaf variegation, making it one of the most popular plants on the market.
They’ll be a significant hit in your house or business with their enormous, mottled green and white leaves and ability to survive all kinds of weather.
I hope your Manjula pothos will thrive into a luscious happy plant with the guide as mentioned above!