Anthurium Schlechtendalii: Best Grow & Care Guide

Mimicking spear-shaped leaves of this large Anthurium species grace every sizeable backyard while also serving as a valuable companion for other plants with correct watch out!     

Though the best indoor performer, Anthurium Schlechtendalii may remain at risk from unforeseen misfortunes if you miss the tidbits of basic care.

So, keep all the good care to let your Anthurium Schlechtendalii flourish healthily, and this post can be your guide!

Overview of Anthurium Schlechtendalii 

One of the interesting features of Anthurium Schlechtendalii is that its leaves morph their shape in response to the shifting environment in which the plant grows.

As a tropical aroid, this variety of Anthurium generally has broad and attractive leaves that often overshadow some other interesting features of the plant to the viewers.

Anthurium Schlechtendalii: A Complete Care Guide

Pheasant’s Tail is cultivated worldwide thanks to its decorative leaves and unusual flowers.

To start, save this little dose of care requirement and growth rate of your Anthurium Schlechtendalii!

1. Light and Temperature

The growth of the Anthurium Schlechtendalii significantly depends on the amount of bright indirect sunlight it gets. 

Less light can slow down their growth and reduce the temperature.

Declining temperature can turn the leaves yellow and droopy, causing the appearance of brown tips on the leaves and they may fall off.

To protect Anthurium from light and temperature issues, locate the plant about 5 feet away from east-facing windows in late spring and summer.

Anthurium Schlechtendalii can survive in temperatures near freezing point but encounters damage to the leaves.

In winter, if you notice any yellow leaves, it’s not variegation, but the plant may be enduring frost injuries. 

Use frost blankets to cover the indoor and outdoor Anthuriums in winter to protect them from frost damage. 

2. Watering and Humidity

Stagnant water in the pots or soil can suffocate Anthurium Schlechtendalii around the root zone and causes root rot.

Less humidity can slow the plant’s growth, while the leaves may lose their texture and refrain from furling. 

Surprisingly, high humidity is also harmful to this moisture-loving plant which can result in the growth of molds around the stem and the formation of dark brown spots on the leaves.

Besides, little water in the soil can dehydrate the plant, turning its leaves yellow and floppy. In severe cases of underwatering, leaves become brown and brittle.

In winter, cut back watering to every 10 to 14 days and mist the plant now and then to protect it from cold, dry air.

Anthurium Schlechtendalii appreciates frequent misting during hot summer mornings.

Check the top 1 to 2 inches of soil for dryness before watering, and wait for the soil to dry between waterings.

3. Soil and Fertilizer

Most people misunderstand that Anthuriums are either lithophytes or epiphytes, but they can also grow in soil and need nutrient-rich substrate to support their large bodies.

A drainable soil with water-holding properties can prevent wet feet and chances of root rot.

If the plant is not fed right on time, it may suffer from nutrient deficiency symptoms, like yellow leaves or purple-colored streaks on the edges and surface of the leaves. 

A high amount of fertilizer can cause fertilizer burn to the plant leaves, and white crusty salts accumulate on the soil surface.

So, it’s ideal for holding fertilizer in fall and winter when the plant enters a dormant state.

You can also try flushing out the excess salts by running the potted plants under tap water 4 to 5 times.

Additionally, check for soil moisture before watering and avoid soggy soil.

Many commercial fertilizers and potting soil provide a proper soil environment for Anthuriums. Some suggestions are in the following table.

4. Periodic Pruning

Trimming can be done at any time of the year for Anthurium Schlechtendalii.

Since the plant is evergreen, it cannot shed its leaves. Old leaves may be damaged, left eaten by pests, or diseased and drains energy from the plant.

Keeping these kinds of leaves may halt plant growth and spread the infection to other parts and plants. 

Remove the old leaves and spent blooms by cutting them right at the base of the stem. Always start trimming from the top down.

It’s crucial to prune less than one-third parts of the plant at a time. While trimming, you can also remove the young suckers from the base of the plant.

Additionally, cast away any noticeable pests from the leaves with weak water sprays or manually scrub them with q-tips laced in isopropyl alcohol. 

For diseases like brown spots on leaves, flowers, and stems, use neem oil spray onsite to deter pathogens.

5. Potting and Repotting

Root-bound conditions occur when the roots outgrow their current planter and coil to form a ball.

Anthurium may show symptoms like unable to uptake nutrients, slow growth, fading colors from the leaves, and fewer blooms when root-bound.

The best way to tackle root-bounding is by repotting your Anthurium in a new but wider and deeper container.

While repotting, use a 2 to 4 inches wide planter with drainage holes and fill it with fresh potting soil.

Uproot the plant gently from another container by removing all the soil from the pot and freeing the roots from the soil clumps. 

Place the plant in the new container and add more soil from the sides to fill the pot up to 1/2 inch below the brim.

The best time to give your Anthurium some legroom is early spring to mid-summer.

Anthurium Schlechtandalii: All About the Growth Rate

Anthurium Schlechtandalii has a slow to modest growth rate. 

The plant attains a height and spread of 3 meters at maturity thanks to its lancet leaves that can grow to a length of 0.4 meters to 1.5 meters.

The leaves are about 10 centimeters to 50 centimeters broad, semi-glossy to the touch, and light to dark green.

Robust and thick petioles support the leaves of the plant.

From the center of the plant and within the leaves, a long flowering stalk arises bearing spathe and spadix.

The spathe is leafy and lance-shaped with green to purplish violet coloration surrounding a deep purple-colored spadix that bears tiny bisexual flowers.

Likewise, the plant flowers throughout the summer, during which it exists a blooming period and enters the fruiting stage after 6 to 8 weeks of pollination.

Pollination leads to the formation of bright red berries that you can see growing around an extensively long spadix.

To promote successful and punctual flowers, offer Anthuriums with bloom-boosting fertilizer from mid-spring to early summer. 

If you wonder why Anthurium loses flowers, learn about the causes and solutions. 

Toxicity of Anthurium Schlechtendalii

But, like most aroids, the parts of the Anthurium Schlechtendalii contain harmful calcium oxalate crystals that can cause painful burning sensations in pets and humans.

Although the leaves and other parts are useful medicines, the threat of toxicity may arise from the amount ingested.

Upon contact or consumption, pets may show symptoms like vomiting, irritation around the mouth, nose, and eyes, hoarse barks or meows, nausea, difficulty breathing and swallowing, etc.

The best way to lower the burning sensation is to give some milk to your pets.

In humans, contact with the sap from the plant may cause minor skin rashes and irritation.

So, you need to contact any of the following helpline numbers to register a health emergency!

• American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA): (888) 426-4435
• Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 764-7661

Propagation Methods for Anthurium Schlechtendalii 

Early spring is the right time to propagate Anthurium Schlechtendalii from seeds and stem cuttings.

Commercial growers use seeds for propagation which is generally a long process, but unlike most Anthuriums, seeds of Anthurium Schlechtendalii can show higher germination rates.

Stem cuttings show high success in propagation, and results are noticeable within a few weeks.

1. Propagation via Stem Cuttings

You can first root the cuttings in the water and transplant them later in the soil or directly plant the cuttings in the soil.

• First, take 4 to 6 inches long stem divisions, with 2 to 3 healthy sets of leaves and 2 to 3 nodes.
• Place it in a glass jar full of rooting hormone solution.
• Cover the setup with plastic wrap and place it near an east-facing window.
• Set the humidifier on 50% to 80%.
• Change the jar of water every 3 to 4 days with fresh water.
• Tiny white and glassy roots may emerge from the cut region within 4 to 6 weeks.
• When the Anthurium roots are about 2 inches long, transplant the cutting about 2.5 inches deep into the soil.

2. Propagation via Seeds

Harvest the seeds by soaking the berries in room temperature water for 3 to 4 days till the pulp is soft.

• Remove and separate the seeds from the pulp by hand.
• Dry the seeds for a few days and soak them for 12 to 24 hours before sowing. Use one seed per pot.

• Place the seeds about 1/4th inch deep in a moist vermiculite-based substrate and cover them with plastic wrap.
• Maintain a temperature of 70°F using a heating mat and offer filtered sunshine. 

Seeds take 5-7 days to germinate, and you can transplant them to a bigger pot when the seedlings start to grow new leaves. 

However, they may take about 6 to 7 months to mature for propagation.

Anthurium Schlechtendalii for Sale

This variety of Anthurium is readily available for buying on online platforms. Check some shops below.

If you love to colonize Anthuriums, here are 25 Anthurium Varieties for you to choose from!