The Philodendron Rio [ fi·luh·den·druhn ree·oo ] is a house plant with a distinct appearance and shines its brightest with unique variegations right down the middle.
It is an elementary plant to grow, maintain, and store.
Generally, Philodendron Rio prefers indirect bright sunlight, 60-80°F temperature, 50-60% humidity, well-draining acidic soil, fertilizing every two months during spring and summer, and repotting every year.
Continuing on that sentiment, we will show you how you could take care of your Philodendron Rio.
We will include where you can get one and the most frequently asked questions about them.
Read this article below and find everything you need to know about this unique plant.
Table of Contents
- Overview of Philodendron Rio
- Where to Buy Philodendron Rio?
- Philodendron Rio- Ultimate Grow & Care Guide
- Toxicity of Philodendron Rio
- Propagation Methods for Philodendron Rio
- Common Problems in Philodendron Rio
- FAQs About Philodendron Rio
Overview of Philodendron Rio
Philodendron Rio is a native of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. It is a tropical plant, it is mainly found in tropical rainforests.
Let’s look at the basic overview of Philodendron Rio.
|Scientific Name||Philodendron hederaceum 'Rio'|
|Common Name||Heartleaf Philodendron|
|Growth Zone||Zones 9-11|
|Plant Type||Epiphytic and epilithic|
|Growth Size||Grows up to 12 inches in medium-sized pot indoors.
Can grow up to 30 inches in natural habitat.
|Growth Habit||Fast growth|
|Grown For||Stunning foliage|
|Container||Ceramic or plastic pot
Ornamental hanging basket
|Flowering||Small flowers with cream or yellow stripes.|
|Flowering Season||May to July
Spring to late-spring
|Availability||Difficult and rare to find|
|Toxicity||Toxic to pets and kids|
What If I Told You… The name “Philodendro” comes from the Greek words “philo” and “dendro,” which mean “loving” and “tree,” respectively.
Where to Buy Philodendron Rio?
As this plant is quite rare to find, you may need to strive a bit to get this plant. Worry not; we have brought together a list of online shops for your comfort.
|Gabriella Plants||2-4 days||$149.00 (Planter included)|
|Your Local Branch||1 day||$38.00|
Philodendron Rio- Ultimate Grow & Care Guide
Philodendron Rio is not too hard to care for. You can manage the requirements and grow yourself a beautiful variegated Philodendron Rio.
|Watering||Regular watering every 10 days for mildly humid conditions.||A cup of water for every watering session with added misting for dry environments.|
|Humidity||50-60%||Use a humidifier or pebble tray to boost the humidity|
|Sunlight and Location||Indirect bright daily sunlight or medium range grow light.||Placed near a south-facing window with a couple hours of direct sunlight everyday.|
|Soil||Acidic, loose, well-draining soil.|
pH 5.5 - 6
|A potting mix rich in organic materials and peat mixtures.|
|Temperature||16 to 27°C ambient temperatures.||Use a temperature/humidity sensor and use secondary/indirect heating and cooling solutions.|
|Fertilizer||Every 2 months||Optimally during summer and spring when the plant is actively growing.|
|Potting and Repotting||Virtually any material for a pot with an outlet hole for excess water.||New pot every year or when the plant has doubled in size.|
|Pruning||Trim according to personal wishes, making sure not to cut too short.||Prune only in summer or spring.|
|Propagation||Via Root division, Stem cutting and Air layering||Stem cutting is the easiest one.|
|Pest and Diseases||Aphids, Mealybugs, Spider mites and Scale|
Bacterial Leaf Spot, Bacterial Blight
|Apply fungicides and remove infected area.
In severe case, you can propagate the healthy cuttings.
1. Adequate Sunlight and Proper Location
As Philodendron Rio is a rainforest plant, it is accustomed to natural canopy shade with bright sunlight around it.
The specificities for the Philodendron Rio are a bit odd as the plant thrives best in indirect sunlight when it is bright.
Philodendron Rio thrives in medium to bright, indirect sunlight. It is more tolerant of low-light circumstances than most other Philodendrons.
However, avoid direct sunlight because it can cause burns and brown blotches on the foliage.
Place the plant exposed to direct sunlight for a couple of hours a day.
On the other hand, inadequate sunlight might cause your plant to become leggy and the leaves to wilt.
The plant may lose its variegation due to unfavorable or inadequate light.
Therefore, placing the plant around 2 meters (6 feet) away from a south-facing window will be your ideal placement as this will provide a good mix of indirect and direct light.
In cases where your plant can’t access any sunlight at all, a LED grow light is your friend.
This plant requires indirect lighting; use a medium or soft light range for best results.
Also, keep in mind that more exposure to sunlight means more watering is required in most cases.
2. Weekly Watering
As it is a rainforest plant, a Philodendron Rio needs its fair share of water.
The best way to tell if your Philodendron needs water is to check the soil; if the soil is getting too scraggly or crumbling deeper than an inch below the surface, it’s time to break out the watering can.
Ideally, it would be best to water your Philodendron Rio every ten days with about a cup of water during their growing phase and cut back on watering during winter.
Of course, there will be issues with overwatering your plant, and you can tell when the leaves start drooping or, worst-case scenario, the roots develop rot.
Similarly, if you underwater your plant, it will show specific symptoms.
Browning crispy leaves and hollowing stems are apparent signs of dehydration, and watering them regularly will be the obvious solution for this dilemma.
Always let the excess water drain out the drainage hole at the bottom and make sure the plant isn’t left in stagnant water.
Once or twice a week, check if the top few inches of soil have dried. Water your plant thoroughly if it feels dry.
Alternatively, you can use a moisture meter or poke a stick 2-3 inches deep into the soil to measure the wetness.
If the stick seems moist, wait a few days for the soil to dry. Use tepid or lukewarm water while watering this plant.
3. Ideal Temperature
Being a rainforest plant, a temperate and humid condition is perfect if you want your Philodendron Rio to thrive.
The ideal temperature conditions for Philodendron Rio range from 60 to 81°F or 16 to 27°C. Anything below that can be fatal for the plant.
Although it can withstand temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it should not be left outside if the weather is cold. In the winter, relocate the pot to a warmer location indoors.
If your environment is conducive to heat stress, it can cause issues such as an imbalance in nutrient uptake, or in the worst of cases, it can lead to severe root clumping.
If your temperature range falls below the ideal conditions, your leaves can show issues relating to plant frostbite.
This ranges from mild issues such as wilting to severe problems such as water freezing inside the stems and causing them to expand and ultimately destroy themselves.
Tips and Solutions for Temperature Problems
- Place the plant near the drafts and windows with airflow in summer and near the fireplace and radiators during winter. However, avoid letting the plants have any direct contact with them.
Remember, the above method is effective but can take up all the moisture from the plant, making them dry.
- You can also opt for artificial heating and a greenhouse for the plants. But, those methods often have varied effectiveness.
- Your ideal solution is to use a humidity/temperature meter to see what changes the plants need.
- Make sure the plant isn’t placed exactly in front of extreme temperature sources and instead gets radiated or secondary heating/cooling.
- A straightforward solution is to cover your plant during extreme weather, as this helps preserve some leftover temperature like a cozy little blanket.
- Frost blankets and heating pads are other alternatives to protect plants from cold.
- Alternatively, to reduce temperature loss, you can insulate the soil. On the top layer of the soil, try adding mulch such as straw or dried grass.
4. Moderate Humidity
Philodendrons are suckers for a good humidity environment. This Rio is nothing different.
Philodendron Rio prefers the ideal humidity ranging between 50 and 60% to replicate the super humid environment of their native rainforest.
We understand those greenhouse environments aren’t the most comfortable for indoor conditions, so we have some solutions for you.
In cases where your indoors are a bit too dry, which you can tell when the leaves of your Philodendron start getting crispy on the edges, use measures to boost the humidity.
A simple room humidifier should be perfect for your plant. In those rare cases where your indoors are getting too humid for a rainforest plant (as we said, that should be rare), use a dehumidifier like this one.
Too much humidity near the plant can sometimes lead to fungal infections.
You may also make a humidity tray by filling some water with pebbles and placing the pot on it.
Alternatively, you can group many plants to aid in maintaining the humidity levels.
Furthermore, keep your plant away from air conditioner vents because too much humidity might cause it to wilt.
5. Well-draining Acidic Soil
The Philodendron Rio prefers a typically acidic soil from the pH range of 5.5 to 6.
Commonly the Philodendron plant prefers loose, well-drained soil rich in organic materials, and the Rio is no different.
I recommend you avoid using garden soil because it does not drain effectively and can hold pests and diseases that spread to your indoor plants.
When the soil is rich in nutrients, the growth rate also accelerates. Faster growth is promoted by nutrient-rich soil.
Keep the soil moist at all times; make sure the soil is humid (not wet) and not dry, as this may cause leaf yellowing.
You could go for a commercial potting mix or make one at home. Go for the following composition.
- Mix one part of potting soil
- One part coco peat
- One part compost
Mix the above items to form a well-draining soil for the perfect mix, or you could also do with pure soilless sphagnum peat moss. Peat-vermiculite or peat-perlite works fine as well.
Here are some commercial mixes recommended for the Philodendron Rio.
- Philodendron HousePlant Potting Soil
- Miracle-Gro Quick Start Planting Tablets
- Burpee, 9 Quarts | Premium Organic Potting Natural Soil Mix
6. Monthly Fertilization
The Philodendron Rio is not typically a plant that requires frequent fertilizing. But they will do well with a slight nutrient boost.
The ideal timing for fertilizing Philodendron Rio is every two months or 6-8 weeks during spring and summer.
It is unnecessary to fertilize them during autumn and winter when the plant stays dormant.
A classic all-purpose 20-20-20 fertilizer will serve you best as Philodendrons aren’t that fussy about nutrition.
When you water, you can also add spike fertilizer to the soil to slowly release nutrients over time.
You should choose a conservative approach to nutrition as over-fertilizing your Philodendron can lead to root burn from the nutrient build-up and cause your leaves to turn yellow and fall off the plant.
The plant takes the required nutrients from the soil it comes with when you buy it.
Here are some fertilizers we recommend for Philodendron Rio.
- NPK Fertiliser by Aquatic Arts
- Joyful Dirt Premium Concentrated All-Purpose Organic Based Plant Food and Fertiliser
- Balanced liquid foliage booster
- 5-5-5 NPK granular fertilizer
7. Growth Rate and Foliage
A Philodendron Rio is a quick grower. But most of it depends on the environment and conditions the plant grows in.
It can reach up to the size of 30 inches in its natural habitat. While indoors, it can grow up to the size of 12 inches.
The foliage is, of course, the very remarkable glossy green leaves with cream color stripes often concentrated along with vines.
As the plant grows, it sheds off the old leaves and makes way for new leaves. The Philodendron Rio frequently blooms throughout the year between May and July.
The flowers are small and have yellow or cream-colored stripes right down in the middle.
Besides the pretty blooms, the major attraction for this houseplant is its characteristic beautiful, glossy leaves with the cream/yellow splash running through the middle.
8. Potting and Repotting
Philodendron Rio needs a pot that is at least 5 inches in diameter. When it doubles in size or after a year, you can change the pot and move your plant to a larger container that is more suited.
One of the essential features of your pot should be that it contains at least one outlet hole to drain excess water.
The Philodendron, like most plants, is not meant for sitting in water, and letting it soak for an extended period puts the plant in danger of root rot.
Philodendron Rio is a small plant that does not need to be repotted frequently. However, after a few years, the soil will begin to degrade and will need to be replenished.
Repotting your Philodendron Rio is usually necessary once it has doubled in size or once a year, whatever comes first – or worst case, until you notice roots springing out of the container.
When you see this happen, carefully remove the plant from the container.
You can proceed with the repotting during spring when the plant can recover quickly from the repotting shock.
Steps to Repot Philodendron Rio
- Choose a planter that is at least one size bigger than the current pot.
- Remove the plant gently from the current pot.
- The best practice would be to soak the plant for a few minutes before repotting. This will ensure successful repotting, and it will not damage the roots.
- Use proper and fresh potting mix every time you repot this plant.
- Take a new pot and fill it halfway with pebbles.
- Fill the potting mix to the brim and place the plant in the center.
- Fill the remaining space in the pot with potting mix, leaving a few inches at the top.
- Deeply water the plant to allow roots to form quickly in the soil.
- After repotting, water the plant thoroughly and place it in perfect light conditions.
Also, watch the video
9. Pruning Philodendron Rio
Pruning is the process of trimming down your plant, and it all depends on your preference.
For long vines, let the plant be, but if you want your plant to be perky and take up less space, you can decide on pruning.
Prune your Philodendron Rio once or twice a year during spring or summer to keep the stems at a reasonable length.
Prune a few inches from the ends of stems above a node, leaving the node on the existing plant.
Choose a length that suits you but avoid cutting too short to allow the plant to regrow through photosynthesis.
It will stimulate new growth at the cut spot, making the plant bushier and more compact overall. Any cuttings you remove can be saved for further propagation.
Remove any browning leafstalks from the stem as soon as possible because this is where insects will reside and lay eggs if not removed in time.
Toxicity of Philodendron Rio
The Philodendron Rio is indeed toxic to humans and cats, and dogs. It may not have adverse effects on humans, but pets may be at a fatal risk if they consume it in a large quantity.
They contain calcium oxalate, which can cause raphide formation if eaten.
The general symptoms include a burning feeling, nausea, and vomiting. However, there isn’t much to worry about as the plant is not considered fatally toxic.
If your pets have chewed Philodendron Rio, contact the below-mentioned helpline:
- APCC, (888) 426-4435
- American Association of Poison Control Center, (800) 222-1222
- ASPCA Poison Center, (800) 426-4435
Propagation Methods for Philodendron Rio
You cannot help but want to have more of this plant in your household; we understand that.
The most common methods for propagating your Philodendron plants include cutting, layering, or budding.
Cutting and layering are the least complicated and provide the best results among the three, and that’s what we recommend.
Let’s look at them in detail.
1. Propagation Via Stem Cutting
Philodendron Propagation Rio propagation is as simple as growing any other Heartleaf Philodendron. The long vines are easily propagated by stem cutting and rooting in water or soil.
Cutting is the process of trimming the foliage of a fresh node so you can use it to propagate new roots instead.
Step 1: Get the Cuttings
- Check the plant properly for pests and diseases before going on with the propagation process.
- Look for a healthy stem and cut it off the plant. Make sure it has at least one leaf and one node.
- Using a sterilized pruning shear, cut a 2-3 inch long stem with a couple of leaves at a 45-degree angle.
- Remove all leaves from the stem except two.
- Allow the cutting to the callus for a day to minimize bacterial infection.
Step 2: Root the Cutting
Root the cutting in either water or soil. Rooting in water is faster and easier to monitor while rooting in soil produces stronger, more suited roots for soil growth later on.
1. Rooting in Water
- Fill a tall glass or a small crystal jar halfway with clean, chlorine-free water (water kept at room temperature for 10-12 hours).
- Submerge the cutting in water with the cut ends below the water and add some liquid rooting hormone.
- To prevent bacterial growth, move it to a warm spot with bright, indirect sunlight and change the water every 4-5 days.
- Keep the cutting submerged in water for at least 3-4 weeks before seeing 1-2″ long feeder roots.
- To prolong the growth, consider transplanting it to an appropriate potting medium.
2. Rooting in Soil
- Begin by filling a small (3-inch) container with the appropriate potting mix (peat moss, vermiculite, and coco coir).
- Allow the mixture to sit after thoroughly moistening it with water.
- Apply a fungicide and rooting hormone mixture to the clipped end before gently inserting the cutting into the potting medium.
- To reduce water loss, place it in a warm position with indirect sunlight and cover it with a self-sealing plastic bag.
- Allow it to sit for at least 4-6 weeks or longer before looking for new feeder roots.
2. Propagation Via Air Layering
Although more complex, air-layering can be used to propagate Philodendron Rio.
You can do layering by simply layering the cutting with its parent plant until it is ready to be moved to its soil. You can use air or soil layering for this process.
Air layering involves attaching the cutting to its source with a layer of sphagnum moss. The critical thing to remember is maintaining moisture levels, so you must seal this point of contact tightly.
Soil layering involves clipping the leaves of some nodes and burying them in a thin layer of soil.
This process requires no clipping and is safer as the node is still attached to the plant.
Steps to Propagate Philodendron Rio via Air Layering
- Cut midway through a healthy stem of your Philodendron Rio at an angle of 45°.
- Place a small piece of plastic, like a bottle, and place it over the cut.
- Tie some sphagnum moss on the cut and wrap the plastic with a rope around it before connecting it to the moss.
- You will see the roots in about two weeks.
- After the growth of the root is convincing, detach the plant from the main plant.
- Place the plant in a big enough new container with proper drainage holes and moss.
Another method to propagate Rio is by using seeds. But trust me, you’ll have to be very, very patient to be able to propagate via this method.
Many plant enthusiasts do not prefer this method and choose one of the other two methods for propagation.
Common Problems in Philodendron Rio
No matter how hardy a plant is, they are never free of problems. Philodendron Rio is no different; it can incur various issues as well.
Let’s look at a few of them.
1. Common Pests
Remember, Philodendrons are toxic to your pets, not your pests. So, you must keep checking your plants regularly for signs of any pests.
The pests that can attack your plant are Aphids, Scales, Mealybugs, and Spider mites.
Aphids are sap-feeding insects that will suck on the sap of your Philodendrons after penetrating the leaves. They will mainly damage new plant growth.
Aphids are tiny and come in a variety of colors. They are commonly green, yellow, light brown, red, and light green.
Aphids are usually found on the bottom section of the leaves and leave behind a sticky material that collects dirt and debris, resulting in brown blotches on the leaves.
Another form of sap-sucking bug that may infest Philodendron plants is Scales.
They have a shell-like body and produce honeydew. Because scale insects are usually immobile, an early infestation might go undetected.
They’re so oddly formed and unmoving that they resemble shell-like lumps rather than insects. Scales prefer to live on the undersides of leaves and in the areas surrounding the leaf joint.
Scale insects appear as raised lumps on the plant’s stems, leaves, and new growths.
Because they feed on plant sap, they can cause vigor loss, yellowing leaves, and, if left unchecked, can kill a plant.
Mealybugs are tiny, oval-shaped insects coated in a white or off-white, wax-like material. They are another sap-feeding insect that may colonize your Philodendron plants.
As they feed on the plant’s sap, they leave behind a sticky fluid known as honeydew, attracting ants.
Mealybugs have a waxy, cotton-like appearance and are mainly found on the undersides of leaves. Plants plagued with mealybugs become feeble, with yellowing and curling leaves.
They are a type of arachnid bug, live in colonies, and, like the other sap-feeding insects I mentioned earlier, assault a houseplant by feeding on its sap.
Spider Mites are tiny (1/50 inch in length), having oval-shaped bodies and a reddish-brown tint. They are prevalent in hot and dry weather.
Spider mites appear as tiny red spots on the underside of leaves and thin webbing.
Spider mites produce feeding imprints on the leaves as well. They are visible as light-colored spots on the leaves. Leaves become yellow and eventually dry and fall off.
Treatment for Pest Infestation
- Remove badly affected plant portions and apply thick coats of insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- You can also use other organic pesticides. Repeat the treatment every 3-5 days until the spider mite population has been eliminated.
- Nee oil, insecticidal soap, and other natural pesticides can treat an existing infestation or prevent a new one from occurring.
- Coat the leaves and their undersides and repeat the treatment as needed when employing spray-on treatment methods.
- Handpicking is also an effective method of eliminating the pest’s small population in Anthurium.
- To get rid of the pests, spray them with a strong stream of water. Cover the soil with plastic to keep plants from being overwatered.
- Similarly, yellow sticky traps can be used to manage pests.
- In a heavy infestation, pyrethrin spray can aid in pest management.
- Inspect and quarantine new plants before adding them to your collection.
- Plants with high nitrogen levels and slow growth attract pests, so avoid overwatering and fertilizing.
- Allow ample room around the plant for air to circulate freely.
- Give your plant a good wash once a month with clean water to get rid of bugs.
- To eliminate thrips’ alternate hosts, remove weeds and grass from near plant regions.
2. Common Diseases
Like pests, certain diseases affect the plant. They may occur due to different anomalies in their conditions and environment.
The diseases that can affect your plant are Bacterial leaf spots and Bacterial blight.
Bacterial Leaf Spots
Bacterial leaf spot, caused by the pathogen Xanthomonas campestris pv. Dieffenbachiae forms transparent spots on leaf edges that develop brown with tan or yellow halos.
Spots are often uneven in form. The pathogen that causes the illnesses may be present in the soil, and it can be spread by other plants or equipment used on your Philodendrons.
One strategy to avoid disease transmission is to avoid overhead watering.
Remove affected leaves and apply items containing plant-growth-promoting rhizobacteria, such as mycorrhiza, to prevent the illness.
Bacterial blight is another potential disease that your Philodendrons may suffer from. It is caused by the pathogens Erwinia caratovora pv. Carotovora E. chrysanthemi.
Symptoms of the illness include black stains that begin on the leaves and quickly spread to the petioles. In extreme cases, leaves decay and fall off, leaving a horrible odor behind.
Because the bacterium that causes bacterial blight in Philodendrons is easily transmitted to the plant, protection is essential.
Avoid watering the plant from above and keep the leaves and petioles dry at all times.
Biological control of infections appears to be the most straightforward strategy to combat the disease.
Soil amendments and organic fertilizers containing beneficial microbes appear to be effective for disease management.
Beneficial fungi, viruses, and bacteria found in these items combat pathogens that cause bacterial blight.
Treatment for Diseases
- Inspect the problem for severity and dispose of it quickly if the situation appears to be worse, such as root rot.
- Consider trimming the affected areas with sterilized pruning shears and transplanting them to a new potting mix for soft root rot, but not before applying fungicide to the cut ends to avoid future infection.
- Fungicides such as Medallion (fludioxonil) and Prostar (flutolanil) are widely used to treat a variety of fungal infections.
- Treat bacterial infections with Agrimycin, and Phytophthora and Pythium diseases with Dimethomorph and phosphorous acid.
- You can also apply organic fungicides like mefenoxam and aluminum tris/Fosetyl-al.
3. Tip Curl
Overfertilization of your Philodendron plants might result in tip curl and browning the leaves or leaf edges. While not a disease in and of itself, it is a common condition with Philodendrons whose soil is too fertilized.
Don’t fertilize more than once a month, and don’t use more than the specified dose. Diluting the fertilizer and using a weaker solution is preferable.
If you apply too much fertilizer, flushing the soil or repotting the plant will also help.
5. Mineral Deficiency
Philodendrons with mineral shortages may show signs such as stunted growth, tiny leaves, and V-shaped yellow markings on the leaves in the case of magnesium insufficiency.
Magnesium, as a micronutrient, is crucial for maintaining plant vigor and leaf color. Without it, the plant will suffer from yellowing foliage and reduced growth.
Because it cannot absorb magnesium organically from the soil, you must use the proper fertilizer.
Choose a fertilizer that contains an adequate amount of macro and micronutrients, including magnesium.
Feed your Philodendron with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer.
Make sure not to go above the required amount to avoid fertilizer burn.
When your plant reverts, it loses its distinct variegation, which might be problematic considering that the Philodendron Rio is noted for its distinctive leaf pattern.
The causes might be anything described above or something spontaneous, and it is often as easy as a tweak to restore it to normal with its gorgeous coloration.
The problem of insufficient light has already been addressed, as has its prevention and treatment. Unfortunately, spontaneous reversion can occur at any time.
Cultivars like the Philodendron Rio aren’t always 100 percent stable.
If non-variegated leaves continue to appear, you may clip them off at the last variegated leaf to encourage fresh variegated foliage to appear.
Watch the video to learn more,
FAQs About Philodendron Rio
What is the Lifespan of a Philodendron Rio?
Philodendrons are known for their long lifespan.
If you take care of the plant, it can survive for decades. The lifespan depends upon the conditions like sunlight, temperature, water, soil, etc., you provide it.
As a result, the amount of attention you provide the plant will decide how long it lives.
Is there a Difference Between Philodendron Brazil and Rio?
Both Philodendron Brazil and Philodendron Rio are the cultivars of Philodendron hederaceum.
Amid the similarities, they have a few differences that are listed below.
- The leaves are more elongated in Rio and rounded in Brasil.
- Rio is rarer than Brasil.
- Rio and Brasil have the same striations, but the color of variegation in Rio is silver, cream, or white, while Brasil has greenish-yellow variegation.
- Brasil was discovered in 1991, while Rio was cultivated by Gabriella plants in 2009.
Is the Philodendron Rio a Pricey Plant?
If you are an avid plant lover, you may know that variegated plants have a higher cost than typical plants.
The same is the case with Philodendron Rio; it is pricey because of its location, demand, and rarity. There are, however, more expensive Philodendron cultivars available.
The Philodendron Rio might cost up to 150$ for a small plant due to its rarity.
Overall, the Philodendron Rio is a houseplant that doesn’t take too much of your time and is one of the more forgiving houseplants.
You can take care of it quickly and place it on a table or a hanging basket.
If neglected for a long time or exposed to highly varying conditions, they can also become prone to pests and diseases, but overall, they aren’t as much of a hassle and are perfect for new plant parents.