Showcasing an array of sleeky green and maroon leaves, the Imperial Red Philodendron is a flawless plant for indoor decorations.
Still, its foliage can be a victim of yellowing if you disregard its care concerns!
Hence, learn about the daily needs, propagation methods, and failsafe tips to protect Imperial Red Philodendron from pests and diseases.
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Imperial Red Philodendron [Plant Overview]
Philodendron Erubescence ‘Imperial Red’ is a hybrid ornamental cultivar of Philodendron species.
The plant leaves are huge spade-like leathery foliage ranging from dark red to deep burgundy and green.
Unlike other Philodendron species, the plant is non-vining, with leaves rising from a single stem.
Hence, the plant is solely cultivated for ornamental decor, with a few wild populations.
Have a quick overview from the table to learn more interesting plant features.
Feature(s) | Description(s) |
---|---|
Scientific Name | Philodendron Erubescens 'Imperial Red' |
Common Name | Blushing Philodendron Red Leaf Philodendron Imperial Red Philodendron |
Native | Tropical Rainforest within South America |
Family | Araceae |
USDA Zones | 9-11 |
Habit | Evergreen Perennial Epiphytic Herb |
Growth Rate | Slow to Moderate |
Plant Size | Height & Spread: 2-3 feet |
Leaf | Color: Reddish, Dark Brown, Green & Burgundy Shape: Oval, Spade-like or Lance-Shaped Texture: Glossy & Leathery |
Flowers | Inflorescence: Spathe & Spadix |
Grown for | Attractive Flaring, Vibrant & Dazzling Leaves |
Toxicity | Poisonous to humans & pets |
Imperial Red Philodendron Care & Grow Guide
The parent plant of Imperial Red, Philodendron erubescence, inhabits the tropical forests of South America.
That said, the indoor care demand for the plant dictates its placement in a tropical setting.
1. Sunlight & Temperature
Imperial Red Philodendron requires indirect sunlight and warm weather for proper development.
Anything below 55º F stunts the development. However, it stresses the plant when the temperature rises to 95º F or above.
So better to place the pot near an east-facing window or 3-5 feet away from a south-facing window to prevent scorching sunlight.
Also, providing 1-2 hours of direct sunlight in the morning completes the left-out light requirement of Philodendrons.
However, don’t leave your Imperial Red in direct sunlight all day, as it will burn the foliage and lead to fading of leaf colors.
Similarly, keep your plant away from heating or cooling vents or north-facing windows during fall and winter to avoid temperature fluctuations.
In rooms with low light, keep the Philodendron under fluorescent lights for 8-10 hours daily to cope with the light requirement.
2. Watering & Humidity
Philodendrons prefer moist soil with high humidity, around 50-70%, to flourish their broad and dark leaves.
Water weekly during the spring and summer but every 10-14 days in fall and winter, with intervals between watering to let the soil dry out completely.
However, to keep the root ball adequately moist, maintain the humidity (not <40%) by installing indoor humidifiers or using humidity trays.
Also, to prevent fungal attacks, use distilled or rainwater only when 1-2 inches of topsoil is dry.
Additionally, apply the bottom watering technique for better results.
3. Soil & Fertilizer
Philodendron Imperial Red grows prefers aerated, nutrient-rich, and acidic soil (6-6.5 pH).
Choose the materials like organic perlite, coco coir, and potting soil for the ideal potting mix in a ratio of 1:1:1 with the monthly application of liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer.
However, cease fertilization in winter to prevent overfertilization as the plant undergoes dormancy.
Also, adding organic materials like leaf litter, kitchen compost, and manure boosts the soil acidity.
4. Potting & Repotting
Philodendron Imperial Red can easily stay in a poky container 1-2 inches wider in diameter than the root ball as they like to be slightly potbound.
However, when roots poke out from the drainage holes, transfer the plant to a container 2-3 inches more spacious than the previous one with drainage holes.
Start by watering the plant thoroughly before repotting to make the soil loose and prevent stress.
Fill a terracotta pot with the potting mix, remove the plant from the previous pot, place it in the center, and fill it all the way to the top.
Lastly, water the repotted plant and locate it in an area receiving bright enough, indirect light until it perks up again.
5. Occasional Pruning
Scheduled pruning isn’t necessary for the Imperial Red, but trimming now and then in early spring to remove a dead, yellowing, or diseased leaf befits the growth.
Also, aphids, fungus gnats, and mealybugs may pierce the leaves and stem and suck the sap.
So, remove them by spraying insecticidal soap and neem oil or dabbing the area of infestation with alcohol-dipped swabs.
Trim off the affected leaves when you notice the irregularities and spray copper-rich fungicide over the plant to control further spread.
Imperial Red Philodendron [Growth & Flowering]
Because of the broad, wide-bodied stems, Imperial Red Philodendron occupies a decent amount of space indoors.
Similarly, Imperial Red will bloom from late spring to early summer with vibrant inflorescence containing red spathe and white spadix, bearing minute flowers.
Due to the color, shape, and leaf arrangement, the plant shares many resemblances with other Philodendron varieties.
This is because the plant is a hybrid cultivar of Philodendron erubescence, and horticulturists cultivated the plant with selective traits to increase its ornamental value.
Imperial Red Philodendron [Toxic Traits]
Although the exotic appearance of the Philodendron Imperial Red may be striking, they are highly toxic to dogs and cats.
Coming in contact with or ingesting the plant parts irritates the mouth and gastrointestinal tract of the pets.
In addition, it can induce vomiting, drooling, and nausea with swelling in the mouth in severe cases.
So contact the following helpline numbers if your pets or kids chew or accidentally swallow the plant parts.
Imperial Red Philodendron [Propagation Methods]
To propagate the Imperial Red Philodendron, you better do it in early spring or summer.
Although the plant produces seeds after flowering, the seeds may not stay true to the parents after germination.
Additionally, tissue culturing is another method of propagating the plant, but it is a bit complicated indoors.
Further, you can root the cuttings in water first and transplant them into the soil after they grow 2-3 inches long.
1. Propagate Imperial Red Philodendron Via Stem Cutting
Among all the methods, stem cutting is the easiest and most common technique for Imperial Red Philodendron.
- Choose a healthy stem that has at least 2-3 nodes.
- Take 4-6 inches long cutting using a sterilized pruner.
- Fill a 6-inch wide terracotta planter with a fresh potting mix.
- After, dip the stem cutting in the rooting hormone and shove the cutting in the center.
- Cover the cuttings with a perforated plastic bag to boost the humidity and warmth.
- Following this, place the plant in a dappled light away from direct sunlight.
- The cutting will establish roots within 3-4 weeks.
You may verify the root development by tugging the plant.
It should be able to resist, indicating that roots are developing.
2. Propagate Imperial Red Philodendron Via Air-Layering
Many prefer the air-layering method as there is less risk to it because you only cut the plant when the roots have developed and not before.
- Look for the tiny aerial roots that sprout from the plantlet and let them develop to make the stem visible.
- Place the aerial roots in a damp sphagnum moss and cover it with a clear plastic bag.
- Make sure no leaves are caught in this wrap, and poke some holes for aeration.
- Moist the moss well from the holes in the wrap daily to prevent the moss from drying out and compacting.
- After, allow 2-3 weeks for new roots to emerge. Remove the plastic wrap and some moss around your new roots.
Ensure the roots appear in good shape (white is a good sign).
- Cut the plantlet an inch below the new roots and transplant it in a damp sphagnum moss bundle in a transparent container to view the root development.
Imperial Red Philodendron for Sale
A mature Imperial Red Philodendron’s price is high owing to its ornamental traits and cultivation methods.
But here are some sites to bring home a new Philodendron Imperial Red plant at a reasonable cost.
Shops/ Sites | Expected Delivery Period |
---|---|
Plant Vine | Within 2 days after placing an order |
Gabriella Plants | Within 1 week after placing an order |
Kens Philodendrons | Within 2-9 days after placing an order |
Etsy | Within 20 days after placing an order |
Imperial Red Philodendron Vs. Red, Green & Pink Varieties
Some members of Philodendron mistaken for Imperial Red are Philodendron Rojo Congo, Philodendron Emerald Red, Philodendron Imperial Green, and Philodendron Imperial Red Pink.
Rojo Congo or Red Congo have wider and darker leaves, with a more vigorous growth rate and large size than Imperial Red.
Likewise, Emeral Red is a climbing or vine cultivar with greener leaves, while in Imperial Red Pink, the leaves have dark red and pink variegations.
However, the leaves stay green in Imperial Green and don’t adorn a darker-reddish shade at maturity.
From Editorial Team
Conclusion!
The hybridized self-heading cultivar, Imperial Red Philodendron, is ideal for any indoor condition to place on a shelf in the kitchen or bathroom.
To sustain their leaf colors, you must add a touch of tropicality to their daily care routine.