Anthurium papillilaminum, a Panama wild plant, is prized for its signature olive green leaves, requiring a tropical environment to thrive.
Read on to find detailed information about Anthurium papillilaminum care and growing conditions.
Table of Contents Show
- Overview of Anthurium Papillilaminum
- Anthurium Papillilaminum [Ultimate Care & Growing Guide]
- Anthurium Papillilaminum: Growth Habit and Foliage
- Toxicity of Anthurium Papillilaminum
- Propagating Anthurium Papillilaminum
- Anthurium Papillilaminum: For Sale
- FAQs About Anthurium Papillilaminum
- Editor’s Note
Overview of Anthurium Papillilaminum
Anthurium papillilaminum is one of the thousand perennial plants native to South American rainforests that quickly increase in the wild but moderately at home.
|Scientific Name||Anthurium Papillilaminum Croat|
|Common Name||Velvet Cardboard Anthurium
Velvet Leaf Anthurium
|Plant Type||Hybridized Perennial Tropical Plant|
|Growth Size||6 feet|
|Growth rate||Slow to moderate growth|
|Grown For||Leathery Leaves (90 cm in length)|
|Flowering||Flower-like modified leaf (Spadix)|
|Toxicity||Toxic to Humans and Pets|
|Pests/Diseases||Mealybugs, scales, aphids, and spider mites/Bacterial blight, leaf spot, and root rot|
Did you know that Anthurium papillilaminum was first collected in the Missouri Botanical Garden in 1983, which came from Panama wild forest?
Anthurium Papillilaminum [Ultimate Care & Growing Guide]
Always think about the Amazon rainforest setting to grow your Anthurium at home.
Maintaining the tropic-like warm climate is the key to achieving a healthy, signature leather-like leaf of Anthurium papillilaminum.
1. Sunlight & Temperature
Anthurium papillilaminum prefers indirect sunlight for 3-4 hours daily and naturally thrives in warm conditions.
However, it does not mean it will take full sunlight as direct rays scorch the leaves, and a temperature above 95°F will dry the plants, causing excessive transpiration.
On the other hand, the cold and low light stressed plant will exhibit yellowing, curled, and discolored leaves with stunted growth.
So, choose an east-facing window that receives early sunlight for 2 hours and use artificial grow lights for at least 7-8 hours in dark rooms.
You can still effectively grow them in USDA 9-10 zones, but ensure to bring them inside when the temperature drops below 50°F.
2. Water & Humidity
It may be challenging for novice growers to achieve the proper watering schedule that causes wilting or drooping leaves, root rot, and moisture-stressed plant.
Excess watering in highly humid areas can lead to severely moist soil, causing water-stressed roots to lack nutrients.
On the other hand, dried soil aided by low humidity indicates underwatering, causing stunted growth and brown leaf tips.
It is better to use a bottom watering approach or water only when the top 2 inches, or 60% of the topsoil, dries out to keep it moist.
Meanwhile, it is impossible to naturally achieve a high relative humidity level at home. Hence, you should use an electric humidifier or pebble tray to boost it.
3. Soil & Fertilizer
Anthurium papillilaminum requires well-draining, slightly acidic (5.5-6.5) soil rich in organic matter that retains enough moisture.
Moreover, keep the potting mix that suits tropical plants. However, it should not compact under immense heat and drought to prevent waterlogging.
But, be wary about fertilizing Anthurium for at least six months after potting it because a fresh mix already contains nutrients required by the plant.
And in case you fertilize, the Papillilaminum will undoubtedly suffer from overfertilization, showing signs of salt accumulation, burnt roots and stems, and stunted growth.
Similarly, reduce fertilization when the plant goes into dormancy in fall and winter.
4. Potting & Repotting
Given the slow to moderate growth of Anthurium papillilaminum similar to Anthurium magnificum, they are fit to go in a 5 inches pot for about two years.
So, consider repotting it to a container 2″ significantly more than the previous container in early spring. This allows the plant to absorb nutrients from the fresh soil mix throughout the growing season.
Further, to repot a mature plant, moisten the soil the previous day and gently slide it with your hand. Wash the roots with distilled, room-temperature water.
Cut off extended, thin roots and those that look brownish, and fill an appropriate container with fresh soil mix.
Place the plant with a root ball at the same depth as the previous pot.
Fill the rest of the pot with the mix, and then water it thoroughly.
5. Occasional Pruning
Anthurium papillilaminum is not demanding about pruning despite its exotic appearance.
Still, you must prune them once in the growing season to remove the yellow, diseased, and damaged leaves.
Also, the problems like root rot, leaf spot, and floppy leaves can appear in Anthurium papillilaminum caused by bacteria and fungi.
Isolate the damaged plant from other members and cut off the damaged leaves.
Use a copper-rich fungicide every six months to control future infections.
Anthurium Papillilaminum: Growth Habit and Foliage
The Anthurium papillilaminum is a moderate to slow-grower that grows a few inches every active season.
Leaves mature into 90 cm dark-green, leathery foliage with prominent white veining around the base with a plant height of 6 feet.
You can quickly identify a papillilaminum from another Anthurium by its dark olive green leaf tinged with red to violet red.
The upper surface has a velvet blade with the collective veins lying close to the edge of the leaf blade.
Unlike other Anthurium, papillilaminum is not known for flowers, but you will notice erect spadix inflorescence longer than leaves in the growing season.
These are harmless, but you can trim them to ensure the nutrients are passed onto the leaves.
And since the flower is rare, the chance of getting papillilaminum seeds at home is equally scarce.
Toxicity of Anthurium Papillilaminum
Anthurium papillilaminum is known to be toxic to both pets and children.
It will mainly trouble the oropharynx of the animals like cats and dogs, causing oral irritation, pawing at the mouth, drooling, and vomiting.
It causes swollen lips and tongues and breathing difficulty in young children.
Therefore, place the plant in a hanging basket or on top of the shelf to keep it away from the reach of toddlers and pets.
Contact the immediate hotline for aid if you notice any of the above symptoms.
Propagating Anthurium Papillilaminum
Thankfully, Anthurium Papillaliminum can easily be propagated through stem cutting and root division at home in spring.
Papillilaminum can also be grown from seedlings, but acquiring seeds is tricky, and propagation will usually take longer.
Hence, choose stem or root cutting for a more effective propagation.
1. Propagation by Stem Cutting
Stem cutting involves rooting the stem in an appropriate potting medium.
But first, you need to take the cutting without hurting the parent plant.
- Wait until the risk of frost eliminates to get cutting. Better to start in early spring.
- Select a healthy, green-looking stem with at least one leaf.
- Use a sterilized pruning shear or scissor to cut horizontally or vertically between two nodes.
- Snip just below the node leaving as little stem as possible.
1. Using Potting Mix
Directly root the stem in a potting mix.
- Apply rooting hormone to the cutting’s end to speed up the rooting process.
- Get a tiny pot (3 inches), fill it with the potting mix above, and pre-moisten it.
- Gently insert the cutting into the mix and cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to lock in moisture and humidity.
- Place it in a well-lit location with indirect sunlight and a temperature around 70°F (21°C).
The stem cutting will produce feeder roots within 2-3 weeks.
2. Using Water Medium
Use a water medium instead of potting mix to root the stem cuttings, known as hydroponics.
- Get a small jar or clear, transparent glass and fill it with distilled water instead of regular tap water.
- Submerge the stem cutting into the water and place it in a warm surrounding with sufficient indirect sunlight.
- Replace the water every five to seven days or when it starts browning.
You would witness new roots within 2-3 weeks that are at least 1″ long indicating the time to transplant the cutting into a container with a potting mix.
Take visual reference from the video!
2. Propagating by Root Division
Wait until the plant’s last dormancy stage to obtain root cutting.
- Carefully remove the plant from the pot without damaging the roots.
- Wash off all the dirt with distilled water.
- Choose a young and fresh root instead of the thick central root system.
- Cut a section with a stem intact using a sharp pruning shear or scissor. Let the fresh cutting dry out for a few hours before repotting.
- Prepare a pot with the appropriate potting mix and carefully insert the cutting roots into the mix.
- Remember, the root must be placed under the soil not more than 2 inches.
- Moisten the potting mix and place it in a warm location with ample indirect sunlight.
The root will start producing new feeder roots within a few weeks.
Anthurium Papillilaminum: For Sale
After having a thorough knowledge of caring for the Anthurium papillilaminum, you are ready to bring the rare variety home.
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FAQs About Anthurium Papillilaminum
How do I identify my Anthurium papillilaminum?
The distinguishing feature of Anthurium papillilaminum lies in its velvety green foliage hanging in a less cylindrical petiole with collective white veins on the elongated leaves’ surface.
Is Anthurium papillilaminum a hybrid?
No, Anthurium papillilaminum is not a hybrid, but a parent to different hybrid varieties like ‘Anthurium papillilaminum x magnificum,’ ‘Anthurium carlablackiae x papillilaminum’ and ‘Anthurium papillilaminum x Dressleri.’
Like any Anthurium, Papillilaminum needs an adequate tropical setting at home to thrive and grow beautiful leather leaves.
Do not worry when the leaves wilt and become yellow in the winter as they are overwintering to revive in spring.
Keep the plant safe and tucked away from cold throughout winter, and start early care in spring to witness beautiful blooms again.