This article was last updated by on

Anthurium Papillilaminum- Ultimate Care & Growing Guide

Anthurium Papillilaminum is prized for its signature olive green leaves and magnificent décor. In fact, it makes one of the most beautiful Anthurium plants to grow at home.

However, being a Panama wild plant, it requires a conducive tropical environment to thrive.

Anthurium Papillilaminum prefers 70°F-90°F with bright indirect sunlight and a 60% humidity level typically found in Caribbean coastal rainforests. Repotting your Anthurium Papillilaminum once it doubles in size or once a year helps replenish the plant’s nutrients.

Anthurium Papillilaminum
Anthurium Papillilaminum (Source:

Provide humus-rich soil mix with monthly feeding to ensure healthy foliage. Proper care and regular watering will give long, narrow leaves that reach 13″ in length.

Read on to find detailed information about Papillilaminum and how to best care for it.

Overview of Anthurium Papillilaminum

Anthurium Papillilaminum is one of the thousand perennial plants native to South American rainforests.

Botanist Dr. Thomas B. Croat first published about the plant in 1986 in the Missouri Botanical Garden’s Monographs in Systematic Botany.

An aroid plant quickly proliferates in the wild but suffers from a moderate growth rate at home.

Hence, it would help provide a conducive environment that mimics its tropical setting.

Scientific NameAnthurium Papillilaminum Croat
Common NameVelvet Cardboard Anthurium
NativeCentral America, Caribbean, and South America
Growth ZoneUSDA zones 9-11
Plant TypeHybridized Perennial Tropical Plant
Growth Size10-15”
Growth habitSlow to moderate growth
Grown ForLeathery Leaves (90 cm in length)
DrainageCeramic or plastic with 2-3 drainage holes
FloweringFlower-like modified leaf (Spadix)
ToxicityToxic to Humans and Pets
Pests/DiseasesMealybugs, scales, aphids, and spider mites/Bacterial blight, leaf spot, and root rot

One of the most hybridized Anthurium species, finding a plant that traces its origins to the wild plant is now surprisingly tricky.

However, the hybridization has made Papillilaminum more appropriate to be grown as a houseplant.

You can quickly identify a Papillaminum from another Anthurium by its dark olive green leaf tinged with red to violet red.

The upper surface has a velvet blade with the collective veins lying close to the edge of the leaf blade.

Anthurium Papillilaminum- Ultimate Care & Growing Guide

Caring for Anthurium Papillilaminum is an easy-to-care houseplant that requires optimal care at all times.

It may be challenging for novice growers to achieve the proper growing condition that causes wilted or drooping leaves, root rot, and moisture-stressed plant.

Always think about the Amazon rainforest setting to grow your Anthurium at home.

Maintaining the tropic-like warm climate is the key to achieving a healthy, signature leather-like leaf.


Bright-indirect light
(3-4 hours)

Every 9-10 in spring and summer
Every 18-24 days in fall and winter, depending on the soil condition

Well-draining soil mix with slightly acidic pH (5.5-6.5)
Fertilizer icons created by Smashicons - Flaticon

Balanced plant food once a month

21°C to 32°C (70°F to 90°F)

At least 40-60% humidity

Repot once every two years (Choose a pot 2” larger than the plant’s root-ball size)

Propagate via Root division and Stem cuttings

1. Ideal Watering Routine

Anthurium Papillilaminum has a similar watering requirement as other Anthurium plants.

Water your Anthurium Papillilaminum every 9-10 days in the growing season and 18-24 days in fall and winter.

It requires slightly moist soil to assist roots in getting nutrients and supply moisture from the roots to leaves through stems.

However, excess watering can lead to severe moist soil, causing water-stressed roots that fail to obtain nutrients.

Limping, yellowing, and wiling leaves indicate water-stressed (overwatered) plants.

On the other hand, dried soil indicates underwatering, causing stunted growth and transpiration (losing water from leaves).

Look out for drooping and curled leaves with wilted branches.

Tips to Provide Adequate Watering

  • Water every 9-10 days in the growing season to keep the soil slightly moist.
  • Provide 700-800 ml of water to a 5″ pot in the growing season, but reduce it to 500 ml in winter. (Use this calculator to personalize watering recommendations).
  • Deepwater the plant to allow the roots to get enough moisture.
  • Water only when the top 2-inches or 60% of the topsoil dries out.
  • Otherwise, use a soil moisture sensor (1 to 10 scales) to measure the soil’s moisture level. Anything above 7 indicates an overwatered plant.
  • Hold watering until the topsoil slightly dries out.
  • Avoid using chlorinated or mineral water.
  • Use rainwater or distilled water and set it for at least 24 hours before using it.
  • Always use a well-draining potting mix and a container with enough drainage holes.

2. Adequate Sunlight and Proper Location

Anthurium Papillilaminum prefers indirect sunlight throughout the day and will start dropping leaves without ample sunlight.

However, it does not mean it will take full sunlight.

Anthurium  Papillilaminum, a tropical plant that survives in the wild shade, ideally grows in spots that receive diffused sunlight, such as the one reflected from the window, wall, or through a curtain.

Sunlight for Indoor Plants
Sunlight for Indoor Plants (Source: UGA Extension)

Its growing potential is best determined by its location and time of the year.

The southern coast of Florida will provide 54% of sunlight required by the plant, while Minneapolis in the north barely offers 25% of the light from Jan to Feb.

However, as spring approaches, the sunlight will increase by at least 25% in both locations.

Excessive Lighting Problems

  • Crisp and dry leaves
  • Brown tips and scorched marks on the leaves
  • Discolored and curled leaves

Under Lighting Problems

  • Leggy growth on the stem
  • Loss of dark green pigments from the leaves.
  • Drooping and wilting leaves
  • Stunted growth

Tips to Provide Adequate Sunlight

  • As per a rule of thumb, place the plant at the southeast location at least 3-feet away from the window to maximize its sun intake without damaging the plant.
  • Choose a spot that receives early Sunlight for 2-hours, such as an east-facing window.
  • Ensure sure that the bright sun of daytime doesn’t touch its leaves.
  • When the weather or location does not permit much sunlight, use artificial grow lights, such as LED grow lights, for at least 7-8 hours.
  • Each week, rotate the plant in the exact location to compensate for unbalanced light intake.

Read our article to learn more about providing adequate sunlight to Anthuirum.

3. Warm Temperature

A tropical plant naturally thrives in warm conditions with enough humidity.

A temperature between 70°F to 90°F (21°C to 32°C ) is considered ideal for Anthurium Papillilaminum.

They grow well in locations that receive temperatures of +50°F throughout the year, such as USDA 11-12 zones.

You can still effectively grow them in USDA 9-10 zones, but ensure to bring them inside when the temperature drops below 50°F.

Anything that is either too hot or too cold will send the plant into stress, where the cold-stressed plant will exhibit yellowing, curled, and discolored leaves with stunted growth.

Temperature in relation to plant's growth
The temperature in relation to plant’s growth (Source: ResearchGate)

On the other hand, a temperature above 95°F will dry the plant leaves, causing transpiration (excess loss of water from the leaves).

An unnaturally high temperature caused by an air conditioner or heater will suck the leaves dry.

Tips to Provide Optimum Temperature

  • Provide a warm temperature of 70- 90°F during the day and 65-70°F at night.
  • Check the soil regularly for dryness and increase the watering frequency when the temperature rises above 90-degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Bring the plant inside in fall and winter, and do not take them out until the risk of frost passes.
  • Use heating pads for smaller plants during low temperatures to warm the soil.
  • Alternatively, cover the plant with a frost blanket to prevent cold stress.
  • Avoid draft places in the house with heating or cooling units.

4. Moderate Humidity level

Growing a tropical plant at home means you need to slightly notch up the humidity level to prevent it from dying.

The same goes for Anthurium Papillilaminum, which thrives in 40-60% of high humidity levels.

It is impossible to achieve a high relative humidity level at home naturally; hence, you should resort to artificially vamping up the humidity level.

Effect of humidity on leaves
Effect of humidity on leaves (Source: Wikimedia)

But first, start with assessing the room’s humidity level using a hygrometer.

Problems Due to Low Humidity

  • Brown leaf tips
  • Curling and wilting leaves
  • Stressed plant due to increased water loss from plant body and soil mix

Tips to Provide Optimum Humidity

  • Consider placing the pot on a tray with pebbles and water to let it naturally soak up the moisture from within.
  • Keeping close to the kitchen or bathroom may also help increase humidity levels.
  • Alternatively, place the plant among other plants in a room or a greenhouse to naturally boost humidity.
  • Consider adding an electric humidifier in the room to boost humidity levels for numerous plants.
  • Otherwise, mist the plant leaves regularly during spring and summer to naturally boost the humidity around the plant.
  • However, mist the leaves early morning to prevent wetting the leaves for a more extended period.

5. Well-draining Soil Mix

Create a perfect mix of good soil containing organic matters to prepare a well-draining ground.

Anthurium Papillanimanium requires well-draining soil rich in organic matter that retains enough moisture to create slightly moist soil.

Moreover, keep the potting mix slightly acidic (5.5-6.5), which suits tropical plants. However, it should not compact under the immense heat and drought to prevent waterlogging.

Find out an appropriate soil mix condition for Anthruium.

Soil mixed with Organic Material
Soil mixed with Organic Material (Source: Pexels)

Here is how you can prepare the correct potting mix at home.

  • One part coco coir or coconut husk
  • One part vermicompost
  • Half part perlite or vermiculite
  • On-third part of sphagnum peat moss

Otherwise, consider adding a handful of perlite to regular store-bought potting soil to prepare a perfect medium!

Some of the best potting mixes ideal for Anthurium Papillilaminum that can be found on Amazon;

6. Monthly Fertilization

Be wary about fertilizing Anthurium Papillilaminum because a fresh potting mix already contains ample nutrients required by the plant.

You would not require to fertilize your plant for at least six months after potting it.

However, some mild plant food in the growing season does well than bad for Papillilaminum.

Unlike other Anthurium, Papillilaminum does not suffer from under fertilization, but over-fertilizing can leave the plant chemical stressed.

Issues of Over Fertilization

  • Accumulation of harmful salt contents in the soil
  • Burning of roots, stems, and leaves
  • Stunted growth
  • Weak plants are vulnerable to pests and diseases.

Tips to Fertilizer Anthurium Papillilaminum

  • Use Phosphorus-rich liquid fertilizer (5-10-5) diluted to one-fourth strength before applying it to the plant once a month.
  • Otherwise, use slow-release granular twice in a growing season to witness large, olive-green foliage.
  • Using organic compost like worm casting, manure, bone meal, chicken litter to enhance the soil quality.
  • Avoid feeding the plant that has recently been repotted in fresh soil.
  • Similarly, cut back on fertilizing when the plant goes into dormancy in fall and winter.

7. Growth Habit and Foliage

Anthurium Papillilaminum is a popular Anthurium species grown for its signature velvety foliage.

The magnificent leaves mature into 90 cm dark-green, leathery foliage with prominent white veining around the base.

The plant itself is a moderate to slow-grower that grows a few inches every growing season.

Because most nutrients are transferred towards the individual leaf growth, the plant fails to become bushy. However, its attraction lies in its slim stature with extra-large leaves.

Healthy Papillilaminum leaf
Healthy Anthurium Papillilaminum leaf (Source: Etsy)

Unlike other Anthurium, Papillilaminum is not known for flowers, but you will notice some flower-like spadix in the growing season.

Exotica Esoterica points out that this is one of the most attractive of all foliage aroids when well grown.

These are harmless, but you trim them off to ensure the nutrients are passed onto the leaves.

Note: The fall and winter are marked with dormancy; hence, it is natural to see a slowed growth.

8. Potting and Repotting Anthurium Papillilaminum

Anthurium Papillimanium requires repotting only when it grows two times its original size.

Repotting every 2-3 years would suffice to keep the Papillilaminum roots growing more significant.

Consider repotting it to a container 2″ significantly than the previous container in early spring.

It will allow the plant to absorb nutrients from the fresh soil mix throughout the growing season.

Signs to Repot Anthurium Pallilimanium

  • The root-bound plant shows slowed growth
  • The leaves will start yellowing and wilting
  • The soil mix looks light-colored and hard compared to a fresh blend that looks dark.
  • The plant is infected with bacterial or fungal root rot.
Dry and Cracked Soil
Dry and Cracked Soil due to Underwatering (Source: Wikimedia)

Tips to Repot Anthurium Pallilimanium

  • Do not repot the freshly brought plant. Instead, leave it in indirect sunlight for 3-7 days before transplanting it to a new pot.
  • Check the soil moisture and water the soil a few hours before to slide it out quickly.
  • For repotting a mature plant, water the soil the previous day to moisten it.
  • Gently slide it using your hand and wash the roots with distilled, room-temperature water.
  • Cut off extended, thin roots and those that look brownish.
  • Take an appropriate container and fill it with fresh soil mix.
  • Place the plant with roots down with a root ball set at the same depth as the previous pot.
  • Fill the rest of the pot with the mix. Then water it thoroughly.

Similarly, use containers that retain slight moisture required by the plant.

Here are a few recommendations.

Classic Planter, 8" (Plastic)They are durable and lightweight. The drainage holes lie at the bottom
LE TAUCI Ceramic Plant Pots (Ceramic)4+5+6 inch, Set of 3, Planters with holes in the bottom
Plastic Planter, HOMENOTE (Plastic)Comes in five different sizes 7/6/5.5/4.8/4.5 Inch

9. Pruning Anthurium Papillilaminum

Despite its exotic appearance, Anthurium Papillilaminum is a low-maintenance plant. On the other hand, Anthuriums need to be pruned from time to time to maintain them happy and healthy.

Pruning Anthuriums regularly helps to maintain them upright and balanced.

Tips to Prune Anthurium Papillilaminum

  • When trimming anthurium, wear gloves to protect your hands; the sap can cause minor skin irritations.
  • Sterilize the tools before and after their use to prevent the onset of diseases.
  • Examine your Anthurium plant carefully, then start pruning from the top down.
  • Remove any leaves that are discolored or dead.
  • Cut wilted or dead blooms all the way down to the stem. To improve the beauty of the plant, you can also remove stray leaves.
  • Remove any older leaves first, if possible.

Toxicity of Anthurium Papillilaminum

Anthurium Papillilaminum is known to be toxic to both pets and humans.

A typical Anthurium plant, Papillilaminum, contains calcium oxalate that creates health problems when ingested.

Calcium oxalate
Calcium oxalate (Source: ResearchGate)

According to the University of California, Anthurium comes in third and fourth class in toxicity.

It will mainly trouble the oropharynx of the animals like cats and dogs, causing oral irritation, pawing at the mouth, drooling, and vomiting.

It causes swollen lips and tongue and breathing difficulty in young children. Get in touch with a pediatrician or physician immediately.

Contact the American Association of Poison Control Center at (800) 222-1222 or ASPCA Poison Center at (800) 426-4435 for pets.

Propagating Anthurium Papillilaminum

You would surely want to multiply this beautiful plant to decorate other corners of your home or gift your loved ones.

Thankfully, Anthurium Papillaliminum can easily be propagated through stem cutting and root division at home.

Papillaliminum can also be grown from seedlings, but acquiring seeds is tricky, and propagation will usually take longer.

Hence, choose stem or root cutting for a more effective propagation.

1. Propagation by Stem Cutting

Stem cutting involves rooting the stem in an appropriate potting medium.

How to Get Stem Cuttings?

  • Wait until the risk of frost eliminates, especially in early spring, to get the cutting.
  • Select a healthy, green-looking stem with at least one leaf to start with.
  • Use a sterilized pruning shear or scissor (sterilized with isopropyl alcohol) to cut horizontally or vertically between two nodes and snip just below the node leaving as little stem as possible.
Cutting Stem for propagation
Cutting Stem for propagation (Source: Pexels)

1. Using Potting Mix

Directly root the stem in a potting mix.

  • Apply some rooting hormone to the cutting’s end to speed up the rooting process.
  • Get a tiny pot (3-inches), fill it with the aforementioned potting mix, and pre-moisten it.
  • Gently insert the cutting into the mix and cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to lock in moisture and humidity.
  • Please place it in a well-lit location with indirect sunlight and a temperature around 70°F (21°C).
  • The stem cutting will produce feeder roots within 2-3 weeks.

2. Using Water Medium

Use a water medium instead of potting mix to root the stem cuttings, also known as hydroponics.

  • Get a small jar or clear, transparent glass and fill it with distilled water instead of regular tap water.
  • Submerge the stem cutting into the water and place it in a warm surrounding with sufficient indirect sunlight.
  • Replace the water every five to seven days or when it starts browning.
  • You would witness new roots within 2-3 weeks that are at least 1″ long.
  • You would know it is time to transplant the cutting into a container with a potting mix.

2. Propagating by Root Division

Root division is another way to go around propagating Anthurium Papilliminium. The process is pretty straightforward that requires taking root cutting from a dormant plant.

How to Get Root Cuttings?

Please wait until the plant’s last dormancy stage to obtain root cutting.

  • Carefully remove the plant from the pot without damaging the roots.
  • Wash off all the dirt with distilled water.
  • Choose a root that looks young and fresh instead of the thick central root system.
  • Cut a section with a stem intact using a sharp pruning shear or scissor.
  • Let the fresh cutting dry out for a few hours before repotting.
  • Prepare a pot with the appropriate potting mix and carefully insert the cutting roots into the mix.
  • Remember, the root must be placed under the soil not more than 2 inches.
  • Moisten the potting mix and place it in a warm location with ample indirect sunlight.
  • The root will start producing new feeder roots within a few weeks.
Plant root system
Plant root system (Source: Wikimedia)

Read our article about how to properly propagate an Anthurium.

Common Problems With Anthurium Papillilaminum

Anthurium Papillilaminum is not free from problems that are commonly found in houseplants.

Here is the list of a few problems you will encounter with your beloved Papillilaminum.

1. Common Plant Pests

Anthurium Papillilaminums are subject to the same pests commonly found in tropical houseplants.

They are prone to mealybugs, spider mites, whiteflies, aphids, and scale infestations.

Mealybugs (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Here is the list of pests and symptoms.

ScalesBrown bumpy lumps on the undersides of the leaves.

Yellow or rust-colored spots can be seen on leaves
MealybugsWaxy bugs that have cotton-like substances wrapped around them on the undersides of the leaves.

Curling, wilting, and drooping of foliage.
Spider mitesYellowish halo in leaf, wilting and dropping of leaves.

The speckled appearance of foliage.
AphidsTiny grey or black-colored insect cover the leaf.
WhiteflyThe sap-sucking insect resembles scale insects that turn leaves yellow and cause overall stunted growth.

Note: Aphids leave distorted, mottled leaves on Anthurium. You can quickly identify it by mottled leaves or visible trails of ants on your plants.


  • Most visible pests like whiteflies, spider mites, and aphids can be handpicked and disposed of.
  • Soak a cotton ball in Isopropyl alcohol diluted in water and wipe the infested part to eliminate all kinds of pests.
  • Pests like scales can be scraped off with a blunt knife.
  • Spray the plant with water using a hose to dissipate insects.
  • Wash the plant with warm soapy water or insecticidal soaps.
  • Apply Neem oil on the infested plant to effectively remove all kinds of pests.
  • Otherwise, use pyrethrin insecticidal spray to kill and prevent pest infestation effectively.

Preventive Measures

  • Always inspect new plants before bringing them inside the home, including garden-grown plants.
  • Do not carry fresh cuttings, twigs, and grasses into the house that often brings pests.
  • Ensure to buy certified Aphid-free potting mix from the market.
  • Use yellow sticky traps to capture flying insects like whitefly.
  • Wash the plant with clean water once a month to prevent pest infestation.
  • Avoid over-fertilizing the plant or using nitrogen-rich fertilizer that weakens the plant’s health.

2. Horticultural Diseases

Anthurium species is subject to a few horticultural diseases commonly found in moisture or humidity-stressed plant.

You would mostly witness root rot disease, leaf spot fungus, and Rhizoctonia spp. on Papillilaminum plants.

Rhizoctonia solani symptoms on roots
Rhizoctonia Solani symptoms on roots (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Here is the list of horticultural diseases and symptoms.

Root Rot DiseaseIt is caused by Phytophthora and Pythium, leading to browning leaves or black lesions.

Roots become mushy and soft.
Leaf Spot FungusThe causative agents include Alternaria, Cercospora, Colletotrichum, and Myrothecium.

It causes brown or black circular patches along the edges of leaves.
Rhizoctonia spp.A fungus that attacks roots and lower stems.

It causes wilting, stunting, and rot at the base of the cutting.


  • Trim the infected parts or dispose of the plant in a severe infestation.
  • Please dispose of the plant with severe root rot or trim the infected root before repotting it in a fresh soil mix.
  • Apply fungicides containing copper, Benomyl, or Mancozeb to treat fungal infections.
  • Apply fludioxonil (Medallion 50W) to treat and limit Rhizoctonia spp.
  • Alternatively, spray Agrimycin to treat bacterial infections.

Preventive Measures

  • Use well-draining, aerated soil mix to loosen up the soil for increased air circulation.
  • Alternatively, use a commercial potting mix for aroids instead of a homemade medium.
  • Avoid overhead watering to discourage prolonged moist leaves.
  • Maintain the humidity level around the plant using an electric humidifier.
  • Follow the previously-mentioned watering schedule to prevent overwatering the plant.
  • Avoid keeping them in damp locations around the house that encourages excess moisture build-up.

3. Brown Leaf Tips

The brown tips may appear when the roots fail to deliver water and nutrients adequately to the leaves.

Over or underwatering the plant may cause this symptom; however, the root rot caused by overwatering tends to be the primary culprit.

The browning is often accompanied by yellowing of lower leaves.

Brown tips sample (Source: Unsplash)

As a solution, cut back on watering until the leaves revive. Otherwise, slide the plant out to check for root rot signs. Trim the infected parts and transplant them into a new potting mix.

4. Yellowing Leaves

Many factors can cause yellowing leaves on Anthurium; however, too much sunlight and inappropriate watering are the primary culprits.

Plants exposed to direct sunlight will soon develop yellowed leaves with brown patches.

On the other hand, the severely water-stressed plant will exhibit yellowing leaves that start from the base.

The only solution is to provide adequate care and maintenance in lighting, watering, and humidity, especially during the growing season.

5. Floppy Leaves

Floppy leaves on Papillilimanium mostly appear from Rhizoctonia spp infestation when it takes hold in roots and lower stems.

Wilted Leaves
Wilted Leaves (Source: Pixabay)

It mainly affects the young, delicate stems in the plant, leading to floppy leaf development. Follow the disease treatment and prevention guide given above to treat floppy leaves.

Frequently Asked Questions About Anthurium Papillilaminum

Here are answers to some of the frequently asked about Anthurium Papillilaminum

How Fast does Anthurium Papillilaminum Grow?

Anthurium Papillilaminum is slow to moderate grower that can grow a few inches every year.

Some Anthurium species can grow up to 2 feet long in a single growing season, but Papillilaminum’s growth is relatively slow.

Can Anthurium Papillilaminum Survive Overwintering?

Anthurium species can survive outside in non-tropical zones during the winter.

Similarly, Papillilaminum would not do well outside in winter or when the temperature drops below 60-degrees Fahrenheit.

Bring it inside and keep it in a warm, brightly lit location around the house. A bathroom environment would be perfect for this plant.

How to Obtain Seeds from Anthurium Papillilaminum?

Obtaining seeds from Anthurium Papillilaminum can be tricky because the seed-bearing flower can only reproduce from direct pollination by insects, especially a beetle.

If pollinated, the plant will produce berries that contain 1-2 seeds.

Does Anthurium Papillilaminum have any Benefit?

Anthurium plants make one of the favorite houseplants because their attractive leaves are equally significant in absorbing airborne toxins.

It effectively removes cancer-causing agents like ammonia and formaldehyde from indoor air.

Healthy Papillilaminum leaf
Healthy Papillilaminum leaf (Source: Etsy)


Anthurium Papillilaminum makes a perfect houseplant that adds decor to your home with its signature, green-olive leaves.

Like any Anthurium, it needs an adequate tropical setting at home to thrive and grow out beautiful leaves.

Do not worry when the leaves wilt and die out in the winter; the overwinter may affect the plant’s health.

Keep them safe and tucked away from cold throughout winter, and start early care in spring to witness beautiful blooms again.

Related Article: How to Care for Anthurium Magnificum?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You May Also Like