Have you been hosting other Anthurium varieties but still fear getting your hands on the exotic Anthurium pallidiflorum? Calm down!
Minimum care for Anthurium pallidiflorum would surprise you with pendent-like dark green foliage.
Many gardeners have queries regarding the unique appearance and its suitability indoors. Follow along for some authentic Anthurium care tips.
Table of Contents Show
Overview of Anthurium Pallidiflorum
Anthurium pallidiflorum, a rare aroid, belongs to the Porphyrochitonium section of Anthuriums.
|Strap Leaf Anthurium, Velvety Strap-Leaf & Pendant Leaved Anthurium
|Hardiness Zones 12- 13
Height- up to 100 cm
Width- up to 50 cm
|Throughout the year
|Dark green with velvety texture
Leaves are long and narrow pendant like
about 36 cm in length
|Difficult to find
Least Concern group of IUCN Red List
|Toxic to human and pets
Presence of calcium oxalate crystals in sap
Anthurium Pallidiflorum- Ultimate Care and Growing Guide
Maintaining the tropic-like warm climate is the first step to keeping your strap leaf happy.
Not just an experienced gardener but a novice can maintain the strap-leaved velvety Anthurium pallidiflorum.
1. Sunlight & Warm Temperature
Anthurium pallidiflorum likes to live in bright indirect sunlight for 8-10 hours for healthy growth. However, it does not tolerate total exposure to sunlight.
That said, the plant can still live in darker rooms but compromises its growth.
Slow and stunted, declining foliage, curling leaves, leggy growth towards the source of light, and loss of dark green color of foliage due to lack of chlorophyll pigment are the signs of light deprivation.
So, place the plant near the east or north-facing window for ample light and warmth.
Unbalanced growth due to insufficient light can be proportionate by rotating the plant every few weeks or using artificial grow light.
Pro Tip: Place the plant aways from heating and cooling vents to prevent dry, crisp brown foliage.
2. Watering & Humidity
The ideal watering routine for tropical Anthurium pallidiflorum is once every week in summer and twice a month in winter, maintaining the perfect humidity above 50% for the plant.
This is because excess moisture in both air and soil invites bacterial and fungal infections, causing root rot. Limping, yellowing, and wilting of leaves depict the initiation of root rot.
In contrast, dehydration leads to curled and brown leaf edges. Get a humidifier or use a pebble tray to maintain air moisture.
Further, the kitchen and bathroom are high-humidity areas perfect for Anthuriums.
And while watering, makes sure the excess drains out, or the best would be to lets your plant decide the amount of water it needs via bottom watering.
3. Soil & Fertilizer
Anthurium pallidiflorum prefers slightly moist soil rich in nutrients for its lush growth.
The amount of fertilizer you add should be directly proportional to the growth and age of the plant to prevent inadequate feeding.
Dilute the fertilizer to one-fourth of its strength to avoid overfeeding complexities that lead to salt accumulation in the root zone and chemical burn.
Similarly, compacted Anthurium pallidiflorum soil suffocates the roots and halts the plant’s development.
For that, replace the substrate with a fresh potting mix by blending in equal parts of the garden soil, coco coir, or peat moss with half part of the perlite, one-third part of the sphagnum moss, and some worm casting or organic compost.
Organic Matters for Anthurium Plant
- Chicken or Fish Bone meal: Crush the chicken or fishbone in a blender or boil and break the bones into small pieces. Then add them to the soil. Fish and Chicken bone are rich sources of Phosphorus for your Anthurium.
- Fertilize with Fish Tank Water: Fish tank water is an excellent way to supply nitrogen and Phosphorus to plants. Fill the water in a bottle and spray or pour it into the soil.
- Coffee: Coffee is rich in potassium and magnesium. But use in the limit as excess coffee may make the soil acidic.
- Eggshells: Eggshell broth supplies calcium to the plant essential to develop a robust cellular structure. Or use crushed eggshells directly in the potting mix.
- Tea: Add tea leaves directly to the soil or soak them in water and spray on the plat soil to improve soil structure.
4. Potting and Repotting
The end of winter or early spring is the best time to repot the Anthurium when the active growth starts after the dormant period of the winter is over.
Moreover, you should consider repotting the plant in a pot 2-3 inches larger in diameter when the plant gets root-bound, and roots begin to poke out from the drainage holes.
Signs of root-bound plants include compacted and light-colored soil mix, yellowing leaves, wilting, and stunted growth.
While in normal conditions, repot Anthurium pallidiflorum once every two years to keep it healthy and stress-free.
Note: Plant may droop and wilt for some days after repotting. Provide general care to the plant and wait a little untill the plant adapts to its new home.
5. Occasional Pruning
Regular pruning of Anthurium pallidiflorum is not necessary. However, removing dead and diseased parts helps keep the plant neat and healthy.
Pests like aphids, mites, thrips, mealybugs, scale, and diseases like blights, spots, and root rot, devour the emerald leaves.
Trim the leaves off when neem oil and insecticidal soap fail to subside the pest and disease attack.
Moreover, pruning directs the plant’s energy towards new growth, encouraging bushier plants.
While pruning, cut just above the leaf nodes to facilitate the emergence of new branches and foliage.
Pro Tip: Escape cutting more than one-third of the plant during one session to prevent shock to the plant.
Anthurium Pallidiflorum: All About Growth Rate
Anthurium pallidiflorum is a moderate to slow grower, depending on the environmental and feeding conditions you provide.
The short and bent branches dangle the dark green, shiny, and long strap-like leaves (around 36 inches) from the pot.
Due to its trim physique, this plant can be placed in a small space. Moreover, long hanging leaves make strap leaf Anthurium perfect for hanging baskets.
It is not possible for Anthurium pallidiflorum grown indoors to produce flowers.
Even in its natural habitat, it may not flower in every blooming season, but when it does, the mature plant boasts an Anthurium pallidiflorum flower and a yellow-colored spadix.
The flower, when pollinated, has fruits that are berries with 1-2 seeds inside.
Toxicity of Anthurium Pallidiflorum
According to the Pet Poison Helpline, Anthurium pallidiflorum is toxic to humans and pets.
Oxalate poisoning may not be severe in humans, but common symptoms are swollen lips and tongue, breathing difficulty, nausea, and vomiting.
Upon ingestion, your pets may show symptoms like pawing at the mouth, drooling, and vomiting.
Keeping strap leaf Anthurium in a hanging pot can be the best way to keep this plant out of reach from children and pets.
Nevertheless, seek immediate professional help if your pet shows distress signs or contact the numbers below.
Propagation Methods for Anthurium Pallidifloruma
Air Layering and stem cuttings are the most common methods to multiply Anthurium varieties.
You can also propagate strap leaf Anthurium by seed germination. Since it is rare to get this Anthurium blooming, collecting seeds can be hectic.
1. Propagation by Air Layering Method
- Select a portion of a healthy stem with at least one healthy leaf.
- Then take a handful of sphagnum moss and moisten it with water. Soak them in the water for at least 1-2 hours before using.
- Cover the node of the selected stem part with moist moss.
- Use a transparent plastic sheet to wrap the moss along with the stem. Make a few holes in the plastic to allow easy airflow. Also, do not wrap any leaves, as they will decay.
- Water the moss once every two days to maintain the moisture for better root formation.
- Within 3-4 weeks, you can see new root growth on the stem.
After the roots are more developed, open the plastic and make a diagonal cut below the roots with at least an inch-long stem and a leaf.
Place the cutting in the soil medium, water it thoroughly, and put it in a well-lit location.
2. Propagation by Root Division Method
Root division in Anthurium is one of the easiest ways to populate an Anthurium colony.
- Water the plant thoroughly the previous day to soften the soil around the pot for easy removal.
- Grasp the plant from the base and remove it from the container by taping it on the base and perimeter.
- Then clear the soil from the roots and detangle or cut the tangled roots.
- Find the junction between the two stems and tear apart the base of the stem to separate the roots. You may use scissors to cut if it’s difficult to separate by hand.
- Each separated stem should have 3-4 leaves and a few roots.
- Plant each stem in a separate pot after filling it with fresh potting mix.
- Finally, water the plant thoroughly and place it in the shade.
Anthurium Pallidiflorum For Sale
Get the plant and Anthurium pallidiflorum hybrid like Anthurium pallidiflorum × crystallinum from the store below.
|Site to Buy
|7-10 business days
|3 -7 business days
|Rare Home Plants
|2-3 days express delivery
|2-4 working days
FAQs About Anthurium Pallidiflorum
Why does my Anthurium pallidiflorum have spots on its leaves?
Strap leaf Anthurium may develop yellow and brown spots on leaves due to low light intensity. However, pest infestation could also be the culprit for your spotted leaves.
Why does my Anthurium pallidiflorum has started showing droopy leaves?
Stress due to unquenched thirst makes the leaves of strap leaf droop which later wilts the whole plant. Increase the watering frequency as a solution after ensuring no other reason (under fertilization and low light) to be the cause of drooping.
No Overfeeding, Please!
Anthurium pallidiflorum is an adorning indoor plant when provided proper shade and porous potting mix.
More than anything, refrain from feeding them during the dormant winter to avoid excess salinity.