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Anthurium Crystallinum vs. Clarinervium (Confusion Solved!)

Exhibiting similar flaunts and features, Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium wrap blue ribbon around your aspiring indoor jungle.

Yet it is compelling to know the differences that these plants yield to determine which one is the ideal fit for you.

The general difference is Anthurium crystallinum has narrower brilliant green leaves, and Anthurium clarinervium has broader dark green leaves. Anthurium crystallinum also develops more quickly than Anthurium clarinervium.

Anthurium crystallinum plant
Anthurium crystallinum (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

If you don’t know the distinctions between these plants, you can mistake them for replicas.

Furthermore, these plants’ close looks and behavior may cause you to be perplexed.

The basic knowledge about a few differences and similarities can help you in taking the right decision. A quick scan through this article, and all of your doubts will go away.

Are Anthurium Crystallinum and Clarinervium the Same?

NO!!

Despite the similarities, the Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium are not labeled the same.

Although the plants are similar regarding light and soil requirements, watering needs, and the pests and diseases from which they are infected, they differ in more aspects in general.

The table below presents the general overview between Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium.

CharacteristicsAnthurium CrystallinumAnthurium Clarinervium
Plant TypeEpiphytic PerennialEpiphytic Perennial
Common nameCrystal AnthuriumVelvet Cardboard Anthurium
GenusAnthuriumAnthurium
FamilyAraceaeAraceae
NativeTropical area of Central and South AmericaSouthern Mexico
USDA Growth Zones13 and above9 to 11
Grown ForFoliageFoliage
ToxicityToxic to Human and PetsToxic to Human and Pets

Despite having these many similarities, they are not at all the same. The distinguishing factor will be presented throughout this article.

The name crystallinum comes from the gem-like sheen that can be observed in bright light on the finely veined leaf.

If you want to know how to get the most out of your Anthurium crystallinum: Anthurium Crystallinum Care Guide.

Meanwhile, it is one of the simplest plants to care for. It can grow over 3 feet tall and has dark green leaves with red-purple tints and visible white veins, as well as greenish-yellow panicles.

On the other hand, the clarinervium is a smaller growing species ideal for cultivating in the house.

It also has heart-shaped foliage with lovely concentric veins of dim green, gold, or silver, but it is darker than Anthurium crystallinum.

Here’s a lot more about growing and caring for your stunning Anthurium clarinervium: Anthurium Clarinervium Care Guide.

Similarly, the stunning, leathery, dense leaves of these plants are the reason for their cultivation.

Anthurium Crystallinum vs. Clarinervium (Confusion Solved!)

As previously indicated, because of their similar appearance and features, you can mistake both Anthurium kinds for one another if you don’t examine them closely.

They do, however, have significant distinctions. Before we get into the specific differences between these plants, let’s have a look at the table below for a summary:

CharacteristicsAnthurium Crystallinum Anthurium Clarinervium
Growth HabitIt grows faster.
Height: 30 inches (0.75 meter)
Width: 15 inches (0.4 meter)
It grows slower.
Height: 25 inches (0.65 meter)
Width: 15 inches (0.4 meter)
FoliageIt has comparatively slender leaves.
Brighter Leaves
It has comparatively robust leaves.
Darker Leaves
BerriesSmall berries with single seed.
The hue of the berries changes from white to purple as they mature.
Bigger berries with multiple seeds.
As the berries grow, their hue changes from white to orange.
Reproduction Crystallinum follows a vegetative method for reproduction.Clarinervium reproduces generatively.

1. The Difference in Leaf Shape and Texture

There are a lot of noticeable distinctions between them, but the most apparent one is in their leaves.

Anthurium Crystallinum and Clarinervium Leaves
Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium Leaves (Source: Flickr, istock)

The leaves on each of these Anthuriums are heart-shaped. However, the heart shape of Anthurium clarinervium is more noticeable since it features a robust shape.

Anthurium crystallinum has longer leaves than Anthurium clarinervium.

The leaves of Anthurium crystallinum can reach a length of 24-30 inches and a width of up to 18-20 inches.

However, it can only reach a maximum height of 18 inches in a regulated household setting.

The foliage of Anthurium clarinervium, on the other hand, can only reach a length up to 12 inches and a spread of up to 8 inches.

The leaves of Anthurium crystallinum are thinner and more readily damaged, whereas Anthurium clarinervium has thicker leaves.

2. Growth Habit

Both Anthurium crystallium and clarinervium are found in Southern Mexico, but Anthurium crystallinum is also common deeper in Central America.

When given identical circumstances, the Anthurium crystallinum develops quicker than the clarinervium in terms of growth rate.

The former also has more buds and aerial roots than the latter, resulting in a denser plant that proliferates.

Anthurium crystallinum is endemic to Central and Southern America’s rainforest margins, whereas Anthurium clarinervium is native to Mexico.

Anthurium Clarinervium Foliage etsy
Anthurium clarinervium velvet foliage (Source: Etsy)

Both of these plants, being of the tropics, want similar locations to thrive, which is comprised of similar shades and temperatures.

Anthurium crystallinum grows bigger than the clarinervium. A. crystallinum can grow up to 30 inches tall & 15 inches wide, whereas clarinervium can grow up to 25 inches tall & 15 inches wide.

Anthurium crystallinum thrives in temperatures ranging from 65-75°F (18-24°C), so you can plant them outside in USDA zones 13 and up.

On the other hand, Anthurium clarinervium thrives in temperatures ranging from 68-80°F(20-27°C). As a result, if you live in USDA Zones 9 to 11, you may plant them outside.

3. Berries and Seeds

The berries of Anthurium crystallinum start white and become purple as they age.

Anthurium clarinervium berries are also orange when fully grown. Furthermore, due to numerous seeds, Anthurium clarinervium berries are bigger.

The berries of Anthurium crystallinum, on the other hand, contain only one seed.

Anthurium clarinervium seeds
Anthurium clarinervium seeds (Source: Etsy)

4. Reproduction Process

Anthurium clarinervium produces blooms more frequently, i.e., it produces more seeds than Anthurium crystallinum.

Higher seed production is the cause of the species’ delayed development.

A mature Anthurium clarinervium produces spadix with pale green and violet colors, whilst Anthurium crystallinum produces yellow-green or near-white flowers in clusters on the stem.

Anthurium crystallinum reproduces vegetatively, whereas Anthurium clarinervium reproduces generatively.

5. Foliage Color

The hue of Anthurium crystallinum leaves a bit brighter, whereas Anthurium clarinervium leaves are a little darker. As a result, Anthurium crystallinum’s silver vein pattern is more intricate than clarinervium’s.

Despite their variances, the Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium have several characteristics in common.

They are similar regarding their light and soil requirements, watering needs, and the pests and disease they are infected with.

Also watch,

Similarities between Anthurium Crystallinum and Clarinervium

Here’s a quick overview of the similarities between the two species.

RequirementsAnthurium CrystallinumAnthurium Clarinervium
SoilThrives on well-drained slightly acidic soil.Grows on well-drained slightly acidic soil.
Light RequirementThrives on bright, indirect sunlight.Grows on bright, indirect sunlight.
TemperatureIdeal temperature is 72 to 80 degrees F.Thrives on similar temperature of about 70 to 80 degrees F.
Watering Needs2-5 times per week.2-5 times per week.
FertilizingPhosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium in higher amounts.Phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium in higher amounts.
Humidity requirementRequires moist air.Requires moist air.

1. Soil Requirements

The soil requirements for each of these Anthuriums are nearly identical. The first criterion is that the soil is well-drained.

Their roots grow across the soil’s top layer, where water is not confined.

Fertile potting mix (Source: Pixabay)

The water fills the microscopic air pockets that exist in the soil. As a result, the roots smother and drown.

Accordingly, make sure you pick soil that drains well.

In addition, the soil must be loose. Anthurium will struggle to thrive in thick clay soil, and root rot is possible.

They both require the same potting mix of 50% sphagnum, 25% perlite, and 25% husk and thrive in somewhat acidic soil ranging from 5 to 7.

Note: An orchid mix is the perfect soil mix to match your Anthurium clarinervium.

If you prefer, you can purchase these potting mixes products:

2. Their Sizes

Anthurium crystallinum matures up to a height of 30 inches and across a length of 15 inches.

The clarinervium variety is only slightly smaller in height, with a matured height of up 25 inches and about 15 inches wide.

In terms of foliage size, Anthurium crystallinum leaves can reach a length of 24′′ to 30′′ inches when grown outdoors.

However, it can only reach a maximum size of 18 inches in a regulated household setting. In clarinervium, foliage can only be up to 5″ to 12″ in length.

3. Light Requirements

Both Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium thrive in bright, indirect sunshine in terms of lighting requirements.

Their tropical roots need them to thrive beneath large trees where they receive filtered sunlight; consequently, maintaining a balance in their illumination is critical.

These plants should not be placed in front of a south window. The best is to put it on the sunny side of a window.

You may also place it in front of the east or west-facing window. The motive is to provide a minimum of six hours of indirect light to the plants.

Depending on the climatic zone of your resident, the north windows of the house may be inappropriate for Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium.

If your plant appears to be developing slowly and producing few blooms, it may be due to a lack of light.

Light Temperature Scale
Light Temperature Scale (Source: Wikimedia)

You should not, however, allow your Anthurium to sunbathe.

It does require a lot of light to grow, but much of that light should be indirect — reflected off other surfaces or filtered through a somewhat opaque medium.

Here’s how to fix your lighting problems:

  • The plant owner should limit any direct sun exposure to the chilly hours of the morning.
  • Your Anthurium may be getting saturated light if the tips of its leaves are going brown and bleached. Try relocating it to a location with less light.
  • Avoid moving your plant from a brighter to a darker environment.
  • Grow Light will be required if there is a lack of light.
  • Use a light, somewhat translucent curtain or drape to protect plants from the sun.

Note: You should rotate your plant regularly so that every part of the plant gets adequate light.

4. Temperature and Humidity

Again, both plants have similar temperature requirements since they demand greater temperatures in the spring and summer but not winter.

Their temperatures should not go below 55°F; anything lower will cause the plant to die, whether crystallinum or clarinervium.

The optimal temperature for growing them is above 65°F. These plants can only handle a maximum temperature of 85°F; any higher than that would cause them to wilt.

Like most other Anthurium kinds, the crystallinum and the clarinervium cannot survive in dry air; consequently, you should keep their humidity at a maximum of 55-65%.

Anthurium leaves will wither if the atmospheric humidity goes below 65-70% or the temperature climbs over 90°F, even if the soil and sun conditions are just right.

Suppose your Anthurium’s leaves suddenly wither, turn yellow, and begin to fall off.

It might be due to a temperature or humidity discrepancy between what your plant wants and what the atmosphere provides.

Solutions to Temperature and Humidity issues

  • To fulfill the humidity requirements of Anthurium, use a humidifier.
Room humidifier for plants
Room humidifier (Source: Amazon)
  • Allow the temperature in the plant’s room to remain between 55-60°F and not exceed 90°F.
  • A wacky but intelligent idea would be building or purchasing a standalone mini conservatory only big enough for your Anthurium.
  • Try grouping the plants, which might assist in increasing humidity but be careful about the problem (pest and disease infestation) it might lead into.

Remember: Overwatering the plants does not satisfy the plant’s need for moisture.

5. Watering Needs

Another similarity between the two plants is their water requirements. Under normal circumstances, You should water the plants at least once or twice a week.

Put another way, you should water both kinds more in the summer and spring and should water at least thrice a week when the soil is 25% dry.

Such cases arise mostly if you live in the southern part of the country.

Improper watering can allow the fungus to attack your Anthurium; hence it could be indirectly blamed for its demise. In addition, it can cause restricted growth, wilting, browning, and drooping of leaves.

Sprout watered from a watering can on a nature background. (Source: Unsplash)

Anthuriums prefer to grow on the sides of trees, where rain drains easily. As a result, it does not necessitate the same amount of water as other tropical plants.

Therefore, overwatering Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium can develop root rot. You can avoid this using pots that with drainage holes.

6. Fertilizing Needs

Owing to the similarities in fertilizing requirements, both need to be fed during the growing season and do not require excessive fertilization to avoid impaired growth.

Phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium must all be present in greater amounts in the fertilizer. It must contain twice as much phosphorus(P) as potassium(K) and nitrogen(N).

From spring through the end of summer, You should apply a modest fertilizer every 45-60 days—no need to fertilize the plant during winter.

Although fertilizers are necessary, too much fertilizer might cause difficulties. Your plant may be over-fertilized if it is becoming yellow or brown.

Furthermore, overfertilization produces leaf burn, which starts as browning around the margins and progresses to the death of the entire leaf.

If you keep your Anthurium in the same pot for too long, soluble minerals can build up in the potting mix, causing it to rot.

Fertilizer or “hard” tap water with high magnesium or calcium levels might leave these substances behind.

Withering foliage, yellowing, and browning are signs of salt buildup in Anthuriums.

Solutions for Over-Fertilization and Salt Proliferation

  • To minimize fertilizer issues, use a water-soluble fertilizer with low nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content, such as a 1-2-1 complete fertilizer.
  • Stop applying fertilizer and try to rinse any excess fertilizer away with water.
  • Fertilizers can build up potentially hazardous salts in the soil; therefore, rinse the entire root ball with water.
  • Thoroughly run water through the soil and out the drainage holes by placing the pot in a sink.

Following fertilizer products are best for Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium:

7. Pest and Disease Infestation

Pest or disease problems rarely afflict Anthurium plants. However, they can produce yellowing and wilted leaves from scale, aphids, and spider mites.

Infected by insects/bacteria or fungus bacterial wilt, fungal root rot, and black nose disease are common occurrences.

root rot in plant
Root Rot in Plants (Source: Wikimedia)

Bugs may soon overpower your Anthurium flower and spread to your other houseplants if left unchecked.

Get the detailed answer to the blooming issues of your Anthurium here: Why is My Anthurium Losing Flowers?

Disease Infestation

These Anthuriums are prone to bacterial and fungal infections. Xanthomonas blight is the most dangerous kind of bacterial blight.

Rhizoctonia, Pythium, and Phytophthora root rots are also seen in Anthuriums of these kinds.

The leaves can sometimes become yellow or brown due to fungus assaults like fusarium wilt.

Overwatering is the most prevalent cause of fungal disease development; nevertheless, plant owners may require fungicides to cure major infestations.

Every plant owner should expect occasional yellow leaves; it’s just old vegetation that’s withering.

In such circumstances, the roots may also be engaged, and they may become quite fragile in order to maintain the plant.

Solutions to Pest/Disease Infestation Problems

  • If you suspect your Anthurium plant is infested, you should isolate it from the rest of your houseplants right soon.
  • You can destroy most bugs by spraying a weak soapy water solution on the plant, but mature scale insects are more persistent and may require rubbing alcohol to remove.
  • Neem oil or horticulture oil can be beneficial in stopping pest breeding.
  • Solve the problem by removing the diseased leaves using sterile scissors.
  • On the other hand, you may need to apply an insecticide to kill microorganisms.
  • Use fungicides in case of the severity of the infestation

Better suited for Anthuriums, you can buy these:

Common Tips of Anthurium Crystallinum and Clarinervium Care

Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium grow as epiphytes in the cracks of trees in the rainforests of South America and the Caribbean.

You should provide warmth, brilliant filtered light, and lots of humidity to your plant to ensure it blooms consistently throughout the year.

Following are the common things that you should keep in mind:

  • Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium thrive in a warm, draught-free environment with a temperature of approximately 15-20°C. 
  • It’s great if there’s a lot of humidity, so a bathroom or conservatory is excellent.
  • Regularly mist your plant or lay it on a tray of wet stones. When the top few centimeters of compost feel dry, water it. In the spring, only repot after the roots have filled the pot.
  • In the fall and winter, use less water. Water when the top few centimeters of compost feel dry in the spring and summer and let the water drain.
  • Wipe the leaves with a moist towel now and again to maintain them gleaming and dust-free.
  • Aerial roots grow upwardly out of the container. Plants use them to attach themselves to the host plant in the wild. If you find them unattractive, cut them off, use them as root cuttings, or put them back into the compost.

FAQs about Anthurium Crystallinum vs. Clarinervium

1. What’s the Most apparent Difference between Anthurium Crystallinum and Clarinervium?

The most apparent distinction between Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium is the color and texture of the foliage, which is slender plus bright green in the former and robust-dark green in the latter.

2. Is Anthurium Crystallinum, a climber?

Anthurium crystallinum is for sure a climber. It’s an epiphyte with aerial roots and loves to mount on trees in its aboriginal rainforests.

Conclusion

The article above shows the comparison, i.e., Anthurium crystallinum vs. clarinervium, highlighting differences and similarities.

Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium are beautiful plants to cultivate, and their beauty will add value to your yard.

Based on these ratings, you may buy particular plants that fulfill your environmental criteria and plant preferences.

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